A friend has asked me to help her with a patch. I have done the design and put it in a satin stitch circle. My question is. Do I embroider the circle first or the design first. I need to know which is best to try and stop puckers. Thank you

If you are going to use two pieces of fabric, I would probably fuse the two pieces together first and also use a fusible on the back of the final patch fabric...that way it can be ironed flat onto whatever surface it will be finally stitched to...many who make patches use quite a heavy fabric called Drill...if you used this type of fabric for the patch, you probably would not need two pieces fused together...I would do the circle first and then the design...generally you do not hoop the fabric for a patch as the perimeter fabric will be trimmed away and followed with something like a satin stitch...stitching the circle first will adhere the fabric to the stabilizer...I would use a fusible stabilizer and iron the fabric to the stabilizer before you hoop the stabilizer...or you could also use a temporary spray adhesive...adhering the fabric to the stabilizer will also help to prevent puckering when the design is stitched....either would still allow you to pick up the fabric around the patch so it could be trimmed away before the final stitching around the patch. Also, I would not trim the fabric area around the patch until after the design is stitched for the patch...just a double run outline of the patch perimeter stitch it to the stabilizer, then your design, then trim the fabric around the patch, follow with a zig zag tack down of the fabric outline of the patch, then make sure you have really good underlay for your final satin stitching (if that is what you are using for the final stitching around the patch). Underlay would be very important...

2 comments

by mops 02 May 2017

That's the way I do it too: circlr outline first, then design, followed by cutting away the excess fabric, satin stitch outline last.

by airyfairy 02 May 2017

Thank you to both. I am going to try this method and see what happens. This morning I have bought some thick gray material for the patch

For the patch I made for DH cap not long ago I embroidered the design first, then the circle. This way you can add some iron on stabiliser behind the design to make an iron on patch before you stitch the circle.
I'm not sure what the correct method is but using my sewing knowledge too, this is what I do....
Make sure you stabilise well. I use quite a stiff tear away. With the fabric, use 2 pieces and offset one at a 45 degree angle to the other. This will help eliminate puckers when your machine is embroidering on the bias part of one piece of fabric it will be on the grain of the other piece of fabric. Does that make sense? I hope I haven't confused you

1 comment

by airyfairy 01 May 2017

Makes perfect sense. Thank you.

I would think it would be best to have the circle last. That way the material you put the design on can be cut (like in applique) before satin stitch happens. That would make for a neater edge.
Now after reading your question again you are asking more about the puckering. Hm?????. Waiting to see for other answers

I'm not sure but am curious to know what our digitizers say.