straight. Also what is the best placement ...turn up or down. I might have to use 6 x10 frame and it does seem as stable to me. Please help

I have a Janome and have done a lot of towels & face washers and always hoop the towel with the plastic or (WSS) on top and hooped altogther. I have never added tearaway on the bottom and this has always been successful. Try a small one first because various machines may be different.Good Luck.

you have gotten great answers here. I never hoop towels the first time I did one I hooped it was so hard to do so have never done that again. I always pin as close to the edge of the hoop smoothing the towel out. use your templet to decide were you want your design I always mark my stabilizer in the hoop and my project. I then use a pin through the center so I line my center up perfectly were I want it. Then I smooth around and pin in place. I have used basting stitches on some things but have never used one on towels they are so heavy that they usually do not move if you have smoothed them and pinned well. to make sure none of my pins are in the way of my stitches I will just place my template on top and make any adjustments to my pins.
For my placement I will fold the towel in thirds and mark my template there.
Hope it goes well

Emily,I'm from the old school that says I hoop the towel. That way there is NO question that it will move.If it is 1.5 inches thick you will have to hoop your stabilizer and then I spray with a temporary adhesive. I prefer Sulky KK2000 Green, it is safe for you and the environment. You will then need to pin or baste around your design area. In hooping the towel or not, tear away on the bottom, WSS on top. Lay out your towel and find center. Measure so that the BOTTOM your design falls 2 inches above the part of the towel that is sewn differently. Is is the trim. I always iron the front and back of the towel in the direction that the pile wants to lay naturally....and that isn't always straight down. I always get a quality design and have never had any of my work returned. You want to be able to "read" the design with the trim at the bottom. You can do it!

I hoop the stabelizer, then pin the towel to the part of the stabelizer that sticks outside the hoop. If you are using a terry cloth towel, try a Heat & Gone type topping. The exposed stabelizer vaporizes with heat from an iron and what's under the stitching stays to keep the terrycloth from poking through the stitches.

I'm going to try the basting stitch next time, it sounds better than pins; Heaven forbid one gets in the way of the needle.

I've done several towels and always use wss on top keep the towel unhooped and use the frame stitch to hold it all down, never had a problem. I'm not a fan of the sprays, they seem to build up on my needles.....you can always use wss on both sides and match your bobbin threads, then your design will be pretty on either side.....

I like to have the script facing at me when it's folded over the towel rod. So the bottom of the letters go toward the edge of the towel. I don't always hoop, it depends on the kind of towel and if I think it will leave a mark. I add a basting stitch to the design. It bastes around like a frame to hold everything in place before the design stitches out. Pin or spray temporary glue first.

you can use pins and temporarily glue to stabilize. I do like that but I don't hoop :o)

1 comment

by emily16838 17 Jun 2009

Thanks I'll try that