how did it work out on the machine and what size needle was used..I have several designs for the applique bowls and thought of making one for the fourth of july to take to our grill out..and of course leaving it for the hostess..I bought some very fun fabric and am anxious to get started as I have not done a bowl yet..I am challenging myself to try new designs which have been sitting dormat in my files..lol..so ..any help is much appreciated..

I'm glad that you asked the question. The information will also be helpful for sewing together the pieces to make lace bowls.

Kathy, I have never used Peltex for a bowl such as your are talking about, but once - it is still unfinished - it is a lovely bowl - with my suede and the Peltex in between - but it is too thick for me to stitch the pretty binding that I want to finish it off. I have done other appleque bowls - but without the Peltex - I have down the embroidery work - then sandwiched a lightweight flannel between my two fabrics before the final satin stitching and I love the results of these bowls - done in this manner - rather than than one I never finished - that looks great. Hehehe!

1 comment

by lv2sew 04 Jun 2010

I was worried about the thickness of this stabilizer and how the needle would hold up stitching over it..I need this specific bowl to be sturdy..and thought the peltex would be good..I of course bought the extra firm..@ 6.00bucks a yard I hope it works..maybe for something else then...lol

Made by Pellon, it's a heavy duty stabilizer, no grain, 100% polyester, can be washed, doesn't shrink. Something to give strength to bowls, purses, etc.

2 comments

by april22 04 Jun 2010

Thank you !!!

by 02kar 04 Jun 2010

Ahh. I have something similar that is called super hefty. Good to know. Thanks

Please can you tell or explain what Peltex is. I have never heard of,

I've just been doing some 6 panel applique bowls as table decorations for my BF's Mom's 90th. From Walmart got Peltex, I think is what they carry. The Timtex is the more expensive stuff in JoAnn's. I took the design into my software, and printed out the picture after the second step-the part where the atitches hold down the fabric. Then I used that as a pattern to cut the peltex into the shape. Hooped WSS, ran the placement stitching, gave the peltex a spray of adhesive, placed it in the outline, and then put the top and bottom fabrics on either side. They stay in place as the second stitching goes. Then it is easy to trim the 2 fabrics away without having to do the heavier one, plus it saves me from wasting it. I've done 4 bowls so far, and it's working great.
Jo

3 comments

by leenova54 04 Jun 2010

huh, lol! I don't think I will ever figure out the bowls!

by jofrog2000 04 Jun 2010

You just have sides and a bottom.
1-hoop wss
2-sew color 1, which is a placement stitch
3-take hoop from machine, put fabric right side out on top and bottom, replace on machine and sew 2nd color, tack down, usually a zigzag.
4-remove hoop again and cut excess fabric away from design-both sides.
5-replace hoop and then the satin stitch sews.
6-remove from hoop, trim away most of wss and voila, nice edges.
I found the best way-for me-to sew bowls is to have the top edged facing me so I can make sure they are even. With a zigzag stitch set down to 3, start sewing about an inch to the top edge, stop it, turn the pieces so the bottoms face me, and sew the 2 pieces together. Then I continue to sew all the sides except the last one. Then I sew the center to the bottom edges, turning as I go ( you can smoosh the parts to get them where you want them, they go right back in shape). Go all the way around, ending at the last 2 side pieces to be done. Again, start at the top and work down. I figure the top is what you see first, and it look nice with them even.

by lv2sew 04 Jun 2010

thanks ...great idea about printing out a die line...I will give it a try now..