by undecided 16 Jun 2010

name on it. but i would be better off givig her a bag of trash :(


i have found no comb. of needles, material, stabilizer,thread, and tension that works

this is a canvas bag any suggestionsfrom someone with a Janome that actuall does letters? what needles, etc?

thank you kindly
i am so frustrated,

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by karma 18 Jun 2010

Hi, I have the same machine as you & I find sometimes the same problem
I increase the tension a little at a time as its sewing - usually up to 3ish
That works for me
Also I removed the side of machine to see if there was any bits of thread lurking around & there was!!! one little thread - I removed it with tweezers & since then its works okay
Hope you get it sorted Hugs Karma

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by suet 18 Jun 2010

What thread are you using in your bobbin? My dealer told me Janome machines only like Janome bobbin thread. Its finer apparentley than any other.

1 comment
mpo14011 by mpo14011 18 Jun 2010

That's not quite true. I use Coats Filmor bobbin fill on my Janome, which I get from my Janome dealer and it works perfect.

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by clawton 17 Jun 2010

I hope you have solved your problem. However,have you checked the way you have it threaded or whether you have the bobbin in backwards. I know sometimes mine acts funny and I discover that it has come out of the take-up lever.

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by undecided 16 Jun 2010

well, i took out the bobin case to check and it looked perfect...so i put it back...guess i did not do that perfect, because when i started it to do another test te needle jammed into it :(

luckily i knew just what to do ;)
i ran and got an emery board and i am about to try again LOL!

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by grafiau 16 Jun 2010

If all the standard tips that MPO dont work, it sounds as if you need to get your machine serviced. But before you do check your bobbin case for burrs, take it out of the machine and run your finger around the inside and outside of the case to feel if you have any rough bits, occasionaly the needle will come down on the case and leave a pock mark, then when the thread rotates around the bobbin case it has minute catches which causes loops in the design. If the burrs or pock marks are only small or fine, it can be lightly rubbed with an emery board and that often will solve the problem. If they are deep then you need to see your mechanic who will change the bobbin case. This advise was from my mechanic, who is a great bloke and very reliable in his work. I had a similar problem and this fixed it.
Ruth

2 comments
mpo14011 by mpo14011 16 Jun 2010

Good tip, Ruth.

undecided by undecided 16 Jun 2010

thank you i will look and keep it in mind as i continue to work on this problem

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by undecided 16 Jun 2010

update:

new needle sz 11 Organ
tension at 2
checked and the speed is all the way down at 400
canvas with med. wt stabilizer cut away
metro thread

still getting loops ...REAlly bad
seems like it is upright components

I really appreciate any ideas/feedback people with similiar troubles? I am losing my mind and wasting a lot of material and time

3 comments
mpo14011 by mpo14011 16 Jun 2010

Have you tried stitching it on homespun or cotton fabric? Try that, because designs are usually digitised to go on cotton. If you still get a bad result it could be the digitising.
What is the design and where did you get it from?

undecided by undecided 16 Jun 2010

the font is from the Janome machine, the gothic. have also tried the fonts in Customizer. it doesn't seem to matter what the design, just make a vertical piece goig from bottom to top in the sating stitch

quiltmaker by quiltmaker 17 Jul 2010

OH MY - I've had my 300E for a number of years. Depending on the thread I'm using - I set the speed accordingly, metallic needle - slow, Robinson Anton poly - I kick it up a notch. Superior's Rainbow (90/14 needle) - fast. Also set the needle tension accordingly.

Now here's where I totally disagree. I reset my bobbin tension when-ever. Metallic needs a loser tension - it takes some experimenting but it's necessary. I always mark the bobbin tension screw with a marker so I know where it should be returned.

As for looping on top in the satin stitch - just got the straight info from my dealer. You HAVE to change the needle tension.

HTH!

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by mpo14011 16 Jun 2010

OK, I have a Janome 300E.
ALWAYS leave your tension on 2.
ALWAYS slow your machine down to 400.
ALWAYS use a Janome or Organ needle.I always use the blue tipped no.11. For canvas you might need to use maybe a 14.
NEVER touch the tension screw in your bobbin.
ALWAYS use a good quality thread. I always use R-A, Madeira or Coats.
ALWAYS keep your machine clean and serviced regularly. If you use it a lot, then get it serviced once a year.
ALWAYS check how many stitches in the design and stabilise accordingly.
If none of these work for you it could well be the design.

8 comments
undecided by undecided 16 Jun 2010

I will implement now, and let you know how i make out....

i just min. b4 posting put in a new organ no. 11

is there a chart somewere for correctly stabilizing ?
Thank you so much for answering me --HUGS!

undecided by undecided 16 Jun 2010

oh,
what is R-A thread?
How do you feel about the Metro thread--i saw lots of positive feed back--so i bought that.

mpo14011 by mpo14011 16 Jun 2010

R-A is Robson-Anton.
I don't know anything about Metro threads.
I live in Australia, so I use what is available here.
Rule of thumb for correct stabilising-
For every 10,000 stitches use one layer of tear away stabilise. I always use medium weight. I never use cut away, because there is absolutely no difference and it is much more expensive.
So, if you have, say, 18,000 stitches in a design, use 2 layers. If there are only 10,000 or less use 1 layer. I always slip another layer under it when I have about 12,000 stitches in a design.
I have stitched designs with over 38,000 stitches and slipped a 4th layer under it and it stitched perfect and was not stiff like cardboard. It was firm, but not stiff.

undecided by undecided 16 Jun 2010

thank you again!
I checked and have just under 5000 stitches and am using the medium weight cut away.

do you think adding another would help?

also, I am noticing that it only forms loops when going UP in the verticle direction, if it is starting at the top and stitching down on those verticle components it is perfect....

I am soo perplexed

mpo14011 by mpo14011 16 Jun 2010

One layer should be enough.
There are some fonts that don't digitise very well.
You have me stumped!

undecided by undecided 16 Jun 2010

oh, i have tried cotton and felt, and flannel.

mostly i have given up and just used the machine for Redwork....but I really want to do more. I bought it especially for monogramming.

mpo14011 by mpo14011 16 Jun 2010

I have had no problems doing any type of designs with mine.
I don't use the ones in the machine much but have used a few in the customizer with no problems.
I will send you a PM with my e-mail address.

beatie58 by beatie58 17 Jun 2010

Mpo14011, I also have the same machine and always was advised as you have pointed out to slow the machine and use Tension 2...I am also from Australia and I used RA thread too this seems to work well and I use sz11 Janome needle. Sally

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