Which is the best stabilizer to use? I have been using the tear away but I can't make to much designs in the same hoop because the stabilizer goes apart.

YOu have good responses - good stitches to you.

I guess as they say, "Nuff said." A flower for you.

Who could add more than what has been said, except well done "CUTE" family. Letvia, you will learn what works for you and the item you are working on, with help like this. Hehehe! *4U

Use a cutaway. You can handle designs with more stitches 10,000 plus and more detail. More tearaway will let you do a highdensity design but you may have buckling.

3 comments

by pinebeach08 10 Mar 2008

AllStitch.com and MIM industries have backing and recomendations for the type of backing and materials that work best with them.

by elaine45 10 Mar 2008

I buy all of my backing at Thread art. I buy the iron on but don't iron it on. It makes great tear away. Tears quickly without having to hold the stitches. I buy my melt away from All stitch....works very well.

by pennyhal2 07 Dec 2014

I've had buckling problems with cutaway too. Maybe I should try two layers of cutaway.

Jrob, you deserve several flowers for that answer! Thanks loads! Marji

1 comment

by letvia 27 Feb 2008

Flower for you too

My comment is that stablilzer is expensive and to make my self think that I'm not wasting it, I cut the piece larger than I need and simply use it again by moving the hoop over to the unused area. I like your ideas also.

2 comments

by letvia 27 Feb 2008

thanks

by shirlener88 10 Mar 2008

katydid, that is a wonderful use of stabilizer, I do that as well. cudo's!

This may be more information than you want but:
That depends on the first the fabric that I embroidering on and then the density of the design. I go by the following chart. I hope this helps you! Stabilizer & Fabric Matching Guide This stabilizer & fabric matching guide will help you make the right stabilizer choice based on the weight, quality, and type of fabric that you are using. When fabric is produced, manufacturers don't anticipate that anything will be added to it. When we're adding the weight and tension of thread and stitches to fabric, that fabric needs to be made stronger and more 'stable' with stabilizer. If the fabric isn't stabilized appropriately, you can experience many 'headaches,' such as poor registration, design segments not lining up, density problems, puckering, gapping, and more. There are a few rules that can be summarized here: The heavier the fabric you have, the lighter stabilizer you need. The weaker/lighter the fabric you have, the heavier stabilizer you need. One layer of stabilizer is appropriate for 99.9% of projects, and two pieces of tearaway stabilizer is not a good choice when the fabric is best served by one piece of cutaway. If you are sewing on a flimsy fabric with a stabilizer that is too weak, you'll see gapping, poor registration, puckering, and other embroidery 'nightmares.' Conversely, if you are sewing on a heavy fabric with heavy stabilizer, the result will be bulky, and you're making the machine and needle work harder than what it needs to. Avoid embroidery headaches - choose the right stabilizer every time with this guide! Type Fabric Quality Stabilizer Choice Cotton Canvas Durable, heavy, coarse tearaway; if heavy canvas no stabilizer necessary if cap, and cap has buckram, then no stabilizer necessary Corduroy Heavy, textured, ribbed, tight weave Corduroy Heavy, textured, ribbed, tight weave tearaway if heavy; cutaway if lightweight; heat-dissipating to avoid wetting fabric Denim Heavy, strong, smooth, tight weave tearaway; if heavy denim no stabilizer necessary Drill Strong, tightly woven, used in suits, pants, gloves tearaway Duck Heavy, tightly woven. Used in awnings, tents, clothing, tote bags tearaway if thicker, cutaway if thinner, no backing necessary if very thick file:////Inge/inside%20embroidery/ProjectInstructions/PR1153.html (1 of 4)9/5/2005 6:10:39 PM Stabilizer & Fabric Matching Gui Flannel Woven, nap on one or both sides cutaway Gauze Sheer, loosely woven, stretchy cutaway, with spray adhesive Gingham Lightweight, woven knit cutaway Muslin Woven, coarse cutaway with adhesive, or stickyback Organdy Thin, slippery cutaway with adhesive Percale Closely woven, light weight cutaway Pique (golf shirt) stretchy, woven, porous knit Cutaway, topping optional Poplin Woven, twill cutaway, possibly tearaway depending on weight Sateen Cotton fabric with a satin weave cutaway Seersucker Lightweight cotton, textured, bumpy cutaway with adhesive Sweatshirt Smooth, stretchy cutaway T-shirt Smooth, woven, stretchy cutaway or tearaway depending on quality Terrycloth Looped fabric, high pile cutaway or tearaway, topping Velveteen Cotton fabric with velvetlike pile sticky-back cutaway Wool (Alpaca, Mohair, Angora, Camel, Cashmere, Vicuna) Broadcloth loose weave, sturdy cutaway Felt Lightweight, entangled not woven cutaway Flannel Soft, lightweight, nap on one or both sides cutaway Gabardine tightly woven twill, smooth cutaway Herringbone tightly woven twill, textured cutaway Jersey knit, lightweight cutaway Merino soft, fine, smooth cutaway Oatmeal durable, textured, lightweight, soft cutaway Sharkskin woven, shiny, smooth cutaway Tweed woven, textured, rough and flexible cutaway Silk (strongest natural fiber, oldest textile, fibers harvested from cocoon of silkworm) Brocade Woven, usually with manufactured/man-made fibers tearaway Chiffon Transparent, lightweight, thin tearaway Dupioni Lightweight, uneven threads result in “raw” appearance tearaway Organza Sheer, lightweight, thin tearaway, light spray adhesive if necessary Broadcloth Lightweight, sturdy, crisp cutaway Linen “Raw” appearance cutaway with spray adhesive or sticky-back Satin Satin weave on one side cutaway with spray adhesive or sticky-back Linen (from flax, strong, 2-3 times the strength of cotton, sturdy, smooth, lint-free) Butcher’s Linen Sturdy, heavy, used for sturdy clothing (aprons) and can be used as interfacing cutaway Damask Patterned weave cutaway Venise Thin damask, patterned cutaway Manufactured/Man-Made Acetate Lightweight, resilient cutaway Acrylic Lightweight, thin cutaway Polar Fleece Lightweight, breathable polyester cutaway Nylon Strong, elastic, smooth cutaway, with spray adhesive or sticky-back Polyester Strong, stretchy cutaway, with spray adhesive or sticky-back Rayon Strong, soft, silky, lightweight tearaway Spandex Elastic, stretchy, used in exercise clothing, hosiery cutaway, with spray adhesive or sticky-back Other file:////Inge/inside%20embroidery/ProjectInstructions/PR1153.html (3 of 4)9/5/2005 6:10:39 PM Stabilizer & Fabric Matching Gui Leather durable, smooth, strong cutaway for thinner, like lambskin; tearaway for thicker, like cowhide Suede smooth, durable, low nap, possible texture, possible stretch cutaway for thinner; tearaway for thicker, Velvet smooth, nap of varying heights, possible stretch sticky-back, heatdissipating to avoid wetting fabric, topping

3 comments

by letvia 26 Feb 2008

WUAUUUUU you are really great. Thank you very, very much!!!! And flower

by maeeast 26 Feb 2008

Wow! Your answer covers everything. How long did it take you to write all that? ? ? Amazing!

by sand 26 Feb 2008

That is just a wonderful answer. I have pasted it into a word document on my computer under the name: Jrob's stabilizer guide.

Here is a trick I learned. After you carefully tear away the stabilizer under your design, cut a square piece of stabilizer about 1 1/2" to 2" larger than the "HOLE" you have made. Spray the edges with Temporary Adhesive put it underneath your hooped piece and you have Patched the hole and can use it one more time. It just isn't a good idea to try it too many times on the same piece. ;)

1 comment

by letvia 26 Feb 2008

Thank you for the tip, I will try. And you answer me another question, what the spray is for. You are wonderful.

Thanks and flowers for letting me learn even more.

1 comment

by letvia 26 Feb 2008

Another for you

Letvia, different stabilisers for different projects, and it's a matter of personal preference. But for most designs, on non-stretch fabric, I would use either a tear-away or iron-on (not necessarily ironed-on). The thickness of stabiliser used depends on the type/thickness of the fabric. The thinner the fabric, the thicker the stabiliser. If your problem is on every design, you could try using 2 layers of stabiliser, you only need to hoop one layer, the other can sit underneath the hoop. If the problem is only on some designs, your design might be too dense for the fabric, and you might need to use a heavier fabric, or a less dense design. Jrob gave a web address in a similar question, to a good article on stabilisers. I think it was sometime back in the dark ages, haha, and I can't find it. Maybe when she comes here, she'll let you know. Hope this helps, and hugs and flowers to you.

6 comments

by izzy 25 Feb 2008

ruthie do you just put the 2nd stabilizer under the hoop and let the hoop push it around while it stitches or do you spray temp adhesive on it?

by cutiepie 25 Feb 2008

Usually, you just place it under the hoop. Adhesive is not necessary since the first few stitches will keep it in place. This technique (whether the stabilizer is on top on below the hoop) is known as "floating" the stabilizer.

by ruthie 26 Feb 2008

Thanks for answering for me Cutiepie, hope you're keeping well, and look after those twins, love, hugs and a flower - when I find you!!!

by clawton 26 Feb 2008

Nice answer Ruthie and Cutiepie. I had not heard about the floating stabilizer. I will have to try that. It would make hooping easier since some stabilizer is faily stiff. Thanks

by letvia 26 Feb 2008

Thank you very much I will try it. Flower

by pennyhal2 07 Dec 2014

I did a dense design on a fabric, two layers of tearaway, but the design made a perforated line along the outside of the design from the needle holes.

I hoop up a heavy tear away and i have a roll of it at the back of my machine the width of the hoop so that i can use it under to kinda patch up. I put it under the hoop i do not hoop it up, that way you get to move it where you like.I also use it if i need that bit extra support hope this helps

2 comments

by letvia 26 Feb 2008

Thanks. Flower

by pennyhal2 07 Dec 2014

That's an interesting techinque that I have never heard before! Could have it on a paper towle holder layed on its side.