I would like to say thank you to jrob for her help with stabilizers on page 102. I read this after you answered christinarika in her time of need. Could you do one on embroidery needles thank you.
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Does it do it always? If so yes,yes,yes there is someting wrong with the machine. If just some of the time, it could be a poorly digitized design. I have had it happen to me for that reason. You also could have broken a needle some time that hit your bobbin race (the arm that picks up the thread from the top). If it has a burr on it, that will cause what you are describing, too. Or it could just be lint behind where you can get to, and will have to be removed by the tech. Get it in as soon as you can, there is no need for you to get discouraged with it and I certainly would if every time I tried to sew, I had to deal with all of that. ;)
158718jrob, you always have the answers. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. :)
1 comment
by jrob
23 Mar 2008
it is my pleasure. My mentor said to me many times, "I have already paved that road, there is no need for you to do again." I appreciated her so very much, that I feel it is my duty to her to help in any way I can. ;)
46153To answer your question about towels, I use a Schmetz Embroidery needle, 75/11. By being a specific embroidery needle, it is a sharp. I use a cut-a-way behind, if it is going to be decorative only, or a tear-a-way (heavy) if I am going to be washing it frequently. And of course the water soluable on top. I know that lots of folks, don't hoop their towels, but I do. My hoop (Bernina)may let out more than other brands. I don't know about that, but I generally don't have any problems hooping them. I hope this helps you, and if you have any other questions, I hope you will ask. ;)
1 comment
by sanjoy51
23 Mar 2008
Hello jrob, yes I have been doing the same as you but because of the trouble I was having with the top thread looping up around the bobbin I thought it must be the needle so I changed it 75/11 to a new one of the same size and it was still doing the same thing so I changed to the only next size I had 90/14 and it managed to get through the knots and keep going. There is no lint in the bobbin area like they think could be the cause. My machine has been looping up and draging the material down into the machine and I have to cut it free. I have a Deco Bernette 500 for Bernina. Some days it plays up and I have had to fix it and back track 5 and 6 times in a design and then I just want to cry. One good thing is that has come from it is that I have learnt to back track on the design and re-aline it all. But this starts to go wrong when it comes to the outline with black, but it has done it with other colours as well. I can't afford to trade it in yet, I will when I can. In the mean time I just tear my hair out with it. I will take it down to John Watts/sewing shop and see what he says, there must be something wrong with the machine. Thought it was the cotton but its not fussy which colour.I try to avoid the designs with outlines now.Maybe you know something that could help.
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68158718It is a very good general guide that I use. Where there is a wide range of needle
size, you have to be the judge of how thick the fabric is that you are going to be
embroidering on. A good test is to hold the needle in your hand and let “it”
pierce the fabric. Use the smallest size that pierces easily without you punching
it in.
Reference Guide for embroidery needles
Fabric, Size (US/European), Point
Canvas 75/11 Sharp point
Coated or Waterproof fabrics 75/11 Sharp or light ball point
Corduroy 75/11 Sharp or ball point
Cotton sheeting 75/11 to 90/14 Sharp point
Denim 75/11 Sharp point
Dress Shirt (Woven) 75/11 to 90/14 Ball point
Golf Shirt (Cotton/Poly, Knit) 75/11 to 90/14 Light ball point
Golf Shirt (100% Cotton) 75/11 to 90/14 Light ball point
Lace 75/11 Sharp point
Leather 75/11 to 90/14 Sharp point
Lingerie and silk 75/11 Sharp, light ball point
Lycra or Spandex 75/11 to 90/14 Medium ball point
Nylon 75/11 to 90/14 Light ball point
Organza 75/11 Ball point
Rayon 75/11 Ball point
Satin Jacket 75/11 Ball point
Sweater Knit 75/11 Ball point
Sweatshirt 75/11 to 90/14 Light ball point
Taffeta 75/11 Ball point
Terry cloth 75/11 Sharp or ball point
Velvet 75/11 Ball point
Vinyl 75/11 Sharp point
3 comments
by jrob
22 Mar 2008
This looks confusing, because it wouldn't let me put it in colums or even paragraphs, but if you copy and paste it, the 3 columns are: Fabric Size Point....then you just hit enter after each one such as the first one is: canvas...75/11....Sharp Point...2nd one is: Coated or Waterproof fabrics...75/11...Sharp or light ball point. etc. You should be able to make a chart from that. ;)
by imandy2
22 Mar 2008
thanx jrob, that is great info. There is soooo much to learn about this machine embroidery, it can be a little daunting at times. *
by sanjoy51
23 Mar 2008
Thank you jrob This is a very good list and the part I wanted most was the needles for embroidering. Thank you for letting me know how to decide which one to use, it was most helpful and I have learnt something new from your tips.I was inspired by it. I usually use a needle that is made for embroidering but I seem to be messing up with using the right size for when I do the towels. Are there special tips on needles for towels. I have been using size 75/11 mostly but had to change to 90/14 didn't have an inbetween needle I was having trouble when the machine did the outines and knotting. Could be the machine but it seems to be ok at the moment but I feel the needle is too big for it to give a good job. What do you think? although I will try using your method on putting the needle into the fabric first. I will also copy and paste your list. I did the last one as well.
158718sanjoy, thanks - hope jrob does it. Hehehe! Now, where is the page 102? *4U
2 comments
by jrob
22 Mar 2008
go back to questions list, scroll down to the bottom and see the page numbers. That post is on the very last page. It was 102 when I wrote the reply.;)
211079yes, there are so many sorts of needles it can be hard to determine which one would be best for what we are doing.
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46645Hi sanjoy good to see photo, I can't remember seeing it before and I also would like to know more about needles * 4 U
1 comment
by sanjoy51
23 Mar 2008
Thank you to all who answered, I have read information on needles before but they can get very confusing as to which is the best one for the job. I will keep jrobs method with me for life and will try to learn more as well. And follow jrobs list. I like to have a list on the wall when I am sewing but that was the list for sewing and I thought there was a special one for embroidering but it looks like its the same but using a needle made for embroiding. It is all so much to think about, it's mind boggling.Thanks to all and thanks Raels I hope you can get something out of this as well.
76409hi I've had great luck with Klasse brand universal needles for all project sewing, also Schmetz size 80/12 for regular embroidery and sewing, use a finer needle called 'sharps' for tighly woven fabrics and 'heavy' for denims and such, the higher the number the heavier the needle. I found the 80's work great as a universal do it all.
2 comments
by sanjoy51
23 Mar 2008
Thank you for your advise I have been using these brands as well and I agree with you that the 80/12 would be a good size for the embroidering, everytime I try to get that size the shop doesnt have it on the shelf.I use needles marked embroidering needles. Is the size you are saying 80/12 is that an embroidering needle or is it a universal needle?. Thanks for your help as well. I need to learn a lot about needles. I am getting there. lol. Thanks.
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