I just embroidered a design on left front of T-shirt and it looks crooked, is there a way to remove all the stiches? Also , how far down from the top is correct place to put a design or name??

There probably isn't enough material intact beneath the design to make all that trouble worthwhile. You can remove them by hand or using a tool made for that an patching the material and sewing a bigger design over it but for the price of a T-shirt I would just make it a spiffy dust rag lol.
I do tees all the time...(some warped form of self abuse I think lol) A couple of things to keep in mind are in not stretching the material when hooping, using an appropriate (NOT stitch and tear) stabilizer and to use designs that are not so crowded or dense.. I sometimes cheat and enlarge a design without compensating for density and that will work better.
Emblibrary has a great tutorial on T-shirts tho.....

http://www.emblibrary.com/EL/elpr...

Mlbell, I hate t-shirts!! I got this machine because I had some silly idea about doing t's and sweats for money, but after doing a few i've decided there isn't enough money in the *world* to fool with them more than I have to!! Like Clawton and others said, the t's are cheap enough, if you go to AC Moore especially, just get another one and start over. Most t's the material is kind of thin, and I'd be afraid to cut the material along with the stitches. I don't have Peggy's Stitch Eraser, but I've read more people are not happy with it than are thrilled with it. As far as placing the design, Jrob gave a great guide! I would still try the shirt on the person, if possible, and like Bikermom said, put a pin in the center of where you want the design. Shirts fit everyone differently, you might want to adjust placement for body type. Good luck! Marji

1 comment

by marjialexa 27 Mar 2008

Oh, forgot, thanks again Jrob, once more you save the day!! Thanks for taking the time to do all that typing, too, besides the information that's great! Flowers for all the great answers. M

You, my sisters, are welcome! I hope to be of help when I can. ;)

Thanks for asking this question. and thanks to jrob for her answer...

Jrob thanx for that info i just coppied and pasted it i will print it out and keep in the front of my projects book :)*s 4 u all

Wow, mlbell, I'll bet when you asked this question, you didn't expect an answer like jrob gave you, haha! My hat off to you jrob, you've really excelled with this one, sweetie. Mlbell, welcome to our beautiful site, hope you enjoy it here, hugs and a flower for you sweetie.

There are many sites that you can google to find this information. Try this one and hope it helps:
http://www.amefird.com/embroidery...
EmbroideryLibrary has lots of tips also.

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by clawton 27 Mar 2008

Yes, Emb. Librar has a good one also.

jrob i saved that in my microsoft word because i have the hardest time with that also

Jrob, you are our savior.

I know it is wasteful but I usually start over on another T shirt as peptrix says they are so cheap I usually get them on Sale ahead of time and keep them on hand. jrob good information . I printed and will save. A flower for both of you. ,

thebest luck I've had is to put on the shirt, put a pin where you want the center of the design to be, center it in your hoop and poof you're there. As for being straight, just keep practicing you'll get it in no time. flower for you

Position
S, M , L shirt....7" to 8” down from left shoulder seam, 3” to 5” over from center

XL, XXL shirt... 8" to 9” down from left shoulder

1 comment

by mlbell 27 Mar 2008

many, many thks for the above. We did put one hole in the shirt....panic..... My hubbie has a vinly cutter for signs and heat application to fabric. We printed the heat application to the front of the orange shirt (very ugly - green 4-h on orange). When we put the name on and made the hole, he cut the name on heat applied and using a commercial heat press, covered the hole.

Did not realize if we take a 4-h logo off the web by customizer and want to enlarge, the tread count will be either too close or two far apart. This means we have to pay some one to customize???

t shirts are cheap, don't waste your time, use the shirt for practising designs.

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by clawton 27 Mar 2008

Good suggestion.

mlbell, You certainly can try removing all of the stitches, sometimes, it works for me and sometimes not. I usually just put the same design I wanted on a contrasting fabric and make a patch out of it buy using double sided fusible webbing or cut a circle out of the shirt, removing the bad design and putting another one behind it and using a finishing stitch on the raw edges. Sometimes, it looks better than it would have had I not made a boo boo. ;)

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by dkjack 26 Mar 2008

You are our internet book! :) Embroidery Library also has a lot of cheat charts that are very helpful

Embroidery Placement Guide
Embroidery Placement Guide
Article Placement
Clothing
Polo/Golf Shirts (left chest) 7" - 9" down from left shoulder seam, centered between placket
and side seam, or 4" - 6" to the right of placket.
T-Shirts (left chest, no pocket) 7" - 9" down from left shoulder seam, between center and side
seam, or 4" - 6" to the right of center.
T-shirts (left chest, pocket) Centered above or on pocket.
Button-down shirts (left chest, no pocket) 7" - 9" down from left shoulder seam, centered between placket
and side seam, or 4" - 6" to the right of placket.
Button-down shirts (left chest, pocket) Centered above or on pocket.
Turtlenecks On the neck “cuff,” midway between left shoulder seam and
center of cuff. Embroider on inside, so that when cuff is turned
down, embroidery is right-side-out.
Shirt fronts Consider size of garment and shape of design. Generally,
design top should begin 4" - 6" from garment neck, centered
between left and right seams. For children’s clothing, center
between left and right seams 1 1/2" - 3" below garment neck.
Shirt backs 5" from collar, centered between right and left seams.
Jacketbacks 7" - 9" down from shoulder seam, centered between side
seams.
Shirt Cuffs (Monograms) 1 3/8" to the right of button hole, 1/4" above cuff edge.
Monogram should face away from the wearer.
Ties 2" from bottom tip; with vest, 10" from bottom tip, or until seen
above vest.
Robes 4" - 6" down from left shoulder seam, centered between placket
and side seam.
Towels
Washcloths 1" - 1 1/2" above hem, or 1" above border. Can also place
design in corner, angled, 1" - 1 1/2" above corner.
Hand Towels 2" above hem, or 1 1/2" above border.
Bath Towels 4" above hem, or 1 1/2" - 2" above border.
Bath Sheets 5" above hem, or 2 1/2" - 3" above border.
Linens
Sheets Two inches above top sheet top hem. When beds are made,
the top sheet is turned over so piping/decorative hem is
exposed. Consider orientation when embroidering on a sheet;
design may need to be embroidered “upside-down” for correct
orientation.
Pillow Cases Centered from left to right, centered from opening to decorative
hem.
This is a guide that I got when I first started. I hope it help you. ;)

4 comments

by jesinid 26 Mar 2008

GREAT!!!! I just copy and paste to print.

by modo 27 Mar 2008

i'll do the same*

by clawton 27 Mar 2008

I did the same thing. This is more detailed than the one I got from Emb. Library. Thanks.

by mlbell 27 Mar 2008

Jrob WOW,thanks sooo much ,this is so helpful, really appriciate all your help!

mlbell, good luck with removing all your stitching - you can cut the bobbin threads - there is also a little handy tool - that you can buy for that - Peggy's something or other - I have never been successful at getting them out - myself - they make really pretty dustrags in my house. The placement - really depends on where it is on the shirt or blouse of the person wearing it - IMHO - *4U

2 comments

by jrob 26 Mar 2008

Did intend to dispute your Humble Opinion, darlin', just thought I'd share my cheat sheet. ;)

by shirlener88 26 Mar 2008

No worries!