Thanks for all your instructions. I think I have the idea to start. Wish me a little luck and i'm on the way! Thank You!
Jan
I'm not sure this can be done with PE-Design either as I'm pretty sure 1 inch is way out of the max stitch length range.
Like Meganne, I've also done a fringed dandelion (mine was a digitising lesson) and I was amazed at how much thread is used...so now I'm pondering about one inch fringe - that would be an enormous amount of thread (and bobbin thread) - perhaps a better option might be sew on pre-made fringe trim from a shop? (unless of course you're nowhere near a shop lol.)
Could you perhaps do two rows of say 12mm of fringe, one above the other? The effect would be more fluffy. Not sure which software you're using but in PED I'd do a manual column stitch (where you zig-zag your mouse back & forth along the edge, or zz'g at the first 2 corners then at the last two corners of a straight row only) set to the longest stitch length (set it in your stitch attributes), and then do a double run of tiny running stitches just inside the edge of that column to hold the stitches down so they don't pull out when you cut the bobbin thread.... clear as mud? lol You could do a 2nd row of fringe above that 1st row to make it almost an inch of fluff but it still wouldn't make each thread one inch long :( Hope you get it figured out :) xXx
On the dandelion I digitised, I achieved a fringe length of 1 inch using Xpressive 2 software and stitched out on my Xquisite 2 machine, but Xpressive software, created by Pulse, is a professional program as used in the industry, only with a few modifications.
I could be wrong, but I don't think there would be many other programs or machines that would be able to achieve the same results as most machines will just stall once the stitch length exceeds their default maximum.
Hugs and roses, Meganne
I would use my points, move or delete and stretch them longer of a wide zig-zag (may be duplicated as well (so it is a nice thick fringe).
Then Digitize a straight stitch across the top of them to fasten, copy paste the line and move it a fraction so it locks them twice or more.
Hope this helps.
From Bev
P.S. A tip I remember reading somewhere, sew the fringe with an odd bobbin thread so that you can clearly see which thread to snip to relese the fringe ends.
Problem is when you move the points the software automatically recognizes it's wider than their allowed maximum width. There must be some other way to get around that, that's why I suggested manual stitches.
I too don't tack down after each stitch - it would become far too dense, but do lines at the side, short stitches, lines close together to anchor the fringe. And I do the same when digitising velvet - which is closely related to fringe.
The tip about the different colour in the bobbin was posted on EmbLibrary as tip of the day (earned me their coupon).
I have only digitised fringe at the maximum length the software permits for satin stitch, which is not very long at all, some 12 -15 mm dependent on the software you use.
What I want to try is if setting manual stitches would allow longer stitches and whether my machine would except them. The density would be an issue - you'd have to judge the distance carefully to avoid irregular results.
The two links capoodle gives are not saying anything about the actual digitising - alas - I think they are small excerpts from a lesson you can buy.
I tried manual stitches in Embird instead of satin stitch. You can go slightly wider, but Embird just won't let you do anything larger than 13mm or just over 1/2 ".
You might pick up a tip from these two links.
Good ? Jan, I have never digitized a fringe design, would be good to know.......