When I started doing machine emb. they taught me to pull the material taunt in the hoop.

this was a very good question.

Make it more simple, let the tension off on the hoop before hooping. It dont need to snap on, it should just glide on than tighten down, preferebly by hand, but numble fingers may need more assistance. Most of all flat area to work on and relaxxxx

There are sprays that do not gum up. One is 505 spray and fix. It is also odorless which I love.

I don't hoop anything but stabilizer - for any type of project. I use sticky in the hoop and stick things down to it (or non-sticky with a spray adhesive). I also baste everthing before starting to stitch. I don't have any trouble with gumming up, etc. on my machines.

I do not understand what you say about "double hoop" put in, popp out put again????
Could you give the link for the video if possible?
It seems very interessant to make this well.

Thanks everyone! I have used a lot of those suggestions - except for the stuff to wrap the hoop in.... just doesn't look like it would work for me... and I think it would drag on the straight arm.

Many times I "float" a piece of tear away under the hoop and that helps a lot. If it is a knit or towel I put solvy over the top!

Still have a lot of problems hooping!

MJDG

I usually do not hoop my material, I pin it and only hoop the stabilizer. my hoop has a turn knob not a screw and I tighten it as much as I can so I don't get slippage.

I never use the sticky spray. I , like Meg have arthritis in my hands making it difficult to tighten the hoop will use a crap of fabric to help me tighten the screw & at times have tightened just a wee bit with a screw driver. I have never popped a hoop. I like using what I call a collar cut from the nonslip material on my hoop rather than wrap it. I cut a collar the size of each hoop . I layer the hoop , stabilizer, frbric, collar then press the top hoop in but make sure everything is straight, flat & with no wrinkles, the collar keeps everything taut. I might add , most of my loosely wovens & pile fabrics I baste on the hooped stabilizer so there is no hoop on my fabric, thanks to Meg & her basting stitches this works well for me. I think we each have to experiment & see what works best for us./Lillian

So those who do not put your fabric in the hoop. Do you lay your fabric on top of the stablizer then stitch a basting stitch around the area your design will be? I agree with MJDG, I too am afraid of the glue getting into my machine because I do know that it is hard to get off the hoops. I put a velcro on something the other day it had a sticky side. Well I wanted to secure it to the fabric and my needle wouldn't go through because of the glue. So I bought the sew on velcro and hope it works better.

Anyone with weaker fingers may need to use a screw driver just a little for tightening. I have the same problem with a couple of my hoops. I, too, have weak fingers and it is annoying sometimes.

I find it best to press the fabric with a little sizing before hooping so it hoops better and no pulling is needed to get it nice and flat.

Marcelle
http://embroideryavenue.com/
http://embroidery.gotop100.com/

I'm glad you asked this question. I haven't run into problems yet, but I also haven't embroidered on anything but blue jean material. It will help me later though and I'm sure anyone else who is fairly new to m. emb.
Thanks.

I always double hoop and I will use my wooden rolling pin to push/roll the top/inner hoop into the bottom/outer section because I will tighten the screw with the first hooping. I also mark all my fabrics so that when I do pull it taut the grain is still straight. I don't use a screwdriver or plyers to tighten the screw but I will grab a piece of cloth to hold it so as to get a better grip on the screw.
I have arthritis in both hands and my thumbs are very painful, especially the right hand as that is the one I broke in 3 places, including the large Scaphoid bone in the thumb.

My elna hoops are the best because they have a silicon seal in them so the material stays firmly in place.

I am yet to try winding some of that grippy rubbery material (the stuff you put underneath items to stop them from slipping) around the outside hoop, I believe it really helps.
HUgs n roses, Meganne

2 comments

by airyfairy 21 Apr 2011

Meganne - I tried that non slip stuff and I could not get it to work. I found it far too thick.

by jasanne 21 Apr 2011

Tried it on the outer hoop once, and once only! It gripped at the flatbed of the sewing machine and was not a good look! I have used it a few times on top of the fabric between the hoops, but found it more hassle than help.

I very rarely hoop the fabric. If I do hoop the fabric I use your "double hoop" method when I am doing cutwork. I find that hooping tearaway stabilizer works well for me with only using the tiniest amount of spray adhesive. I have no problem with my machine or needles getting gummed up.

Fabric must be tight enough so that the design will stitch without pulling more fabric into the design.
some tips I do :
some designs are in need of two layers of tearaway,so put one sheet down and turn the other to face in the opposite direction (tear-away also has a slight stretch).
Use 4 small pieces of wondertape (sticky both sides) on the center top and sides of the inner-hoop (where it will contact the outer hoop).Now use tiny strips of cut away to stick to the strips of tape. This makes the fabric grip tighter and it stays good for a long time.
I use "pritt" glue stick to dab on the outer edges of the tear-away, place fabric flat and smooth on top.
When you lay it on the outer hoop crease it down into the corners a bit, then push the inner hoop down.
Tighten the screw bolt as much as you can/dare.
I like to loosen my top tension a bit and that allows the design to stitch out flatter too.I find the default setting too tight,and that's half the problem with scrunching the stitchout.
Happy stitching
From Bev

1 comment

by noah 20 Apr 2011

THANKS FOR THE TIPS I TO LIKE TO LOOSEN THE TOP TENSION BUT SOMETIMES IT STILL WON'T WORK AND YOU GET A WOBBLE CAROLYN

If I'm not hooping the fabric, I do use a bit of spray adhesive. Just enough to hold the fabric in place until I get to my machine. Then I do a "fix" stitch around where the design is going to be. If I am hooping, then I do make sure the stabilizer and fabric are smooth in the hoop. I snug up the hoop and then I give the fabric a "slight" tug to get out any puckers by pulling on both sides or ends at the same time. I make sure my fabric is on the straight of grain as well. I then tighten my hoop with my tightener that came with my hoops. When I did not use this to tighten the hoop, I could not get it tight enough and the fabric would shift when being embroidered. You don't have to tighten it so much that it takes a man to untighten it though
:-). If I am working on a knit, I do not hoop. I use the first method. I also try and use a high stitch count fabric when I can. Say for quilts. This helps alot.

I was taught the same as you with the fabric and stabilizer being as "tight like a drum". I have since messed around finding what works for me. Getting it too tight destorts the fabric and design. If you "stretch" the fabric and then you take it out of the hoop, the fabric releases and has no place to go but to pucker. You have to find that happy medium that works for you.

I don't hoop my fabrics - just the stabilizer. I make sure that it is very taunt, and I do pull to tighten it, and then adjust the hoop again. Sometime I have to adjust more than once, as i too do not have the stength in my hands that I used to have.

2 comments

by mjdg 20 Apr 2011

So -- you use sticky stablizer or spray adhes?

I hate the way that gums up my machine and needle.....

Is there a way to get away from that?

MJDG

by dlonnahawkins 21 Apr 2011

No - I use my "FIX" stitch to attach the fabric to the stabilzer.