I once made a rag quilt and I used 8" squares of fleecy knit [leftover from tracksuits] Two layers of warm [shirt] flannel - not stretchy- formed the back and middle. Made sure the grains of fabrics all matched. Worked great.
I ironed it again with a hotter setting, around cotton instead of perma-press. I then washed it again. It is staying on really well but has a little bit of wavy puckering to it. I talked to a friend that does these quilts and she said if I'm going to have it machine quilted then it won't matter. So I'm going ahead with it.
My friend also says she uses whatever is cheapest because it's just to hold the knit steady for cutting and sewing.
This picture is straight out of the dryer. I didn't iron it again (which would make it look better) because we will not be ironing the quilt.
I haven't tried making T-shirt quilts, but my cousin has. She makes them like rag quilts. I don't know what she uses for embroidery backing, but she uses flannel for the backing on the quilt.
I have now found some iron on interfacing for £1 a metre on the haberdashery stall in the market. I've already started experimenting with old sheeting as well as a friend donated a couple of duvet covers to my project!
If I could I would donate some old t-shirts to allow you worry-free practice. Sadly, the distance make that difficult. Please let us know how things go.
I washed the t-shirt that I fused. The interfacing is a bit fuzzy and coming off at some edges which could be my fault. I ironed as long as it said plus some but maybe it needs more time because it looks like some of the dots aren't melted. I will work on it more later, re-iron it. If the edges come up a bit after it's sewn it won't matter. Remember to put the least stretchy direction of interfacing on the most stretchy direction of the knit. If it's still too stretchy to sew easily put another layer of interfacing on in the other direction.
I think the t-shirt was definitely cutable and sewable before I washed it. It was smooth and would have made a neat square for sewing.
here's my - done with bike week tshirts. I used lightweight fusible on the back BEFORE I cut the shirts, then sewed as usual. The quilting holds it in place. I think it turned out great.
Very nice. My Son-in-Law would love that. I'll have to keep my eye out for Harley shirts.
ok so if you are going to use T shirt fabric for quilting you will need something to hold it in shape. so yes use sheeting.
cut out the size square you will be useing just oversized by about half inch from both the t shirt and the sheeting.
pin the two together. hoop up using your normal method and use a baste stitch programed in for the size square for the first sew,next. lay your cotton / T shirt block in poition on top of the first sew out and re baste to hold it down on your stabaliser. you now have a firm base to work on top of and the cotton will hold everything in its right size and shape.
you can easily trim and sash join the blocks together,
You could just use sheeting in the hoop as the stabaliser again do a baste stitch the size of the block needed and then baste the T shirt fabric on top. with carefull cutting of the sheeting AFTER it is taken out of the hoop you can re position without loosing too much fabric.
check out thrift shops for sheeting. if you get all white you can then dye it to whatever you wish as the backing.
If you cut squares of batting about1/4 inch short all round you can pop this in place between the sheeting and the T shirt fabric to make a puffy quilt that will be so warm and cuddly the embroidery on top will hold everything in place for you. Hope this wil help you Sue.
test out with small quilt first.
If you are useing the sheeting as the backing then get some crayola crayons and draw a design onto the cotton, place a sheet of kitchen roll over the design and iron with a warm iron to remove wax but leave the dye behind.
Do that before sewing as pressing after will flatten the batting,
Have fun. annie
Are you going to embroider on the plain parts of the t-shirts Sue? It seems a pity to not use more of the material than the printed section, as shown in the video. Jan
I have a pile of my sister's shirts most are plain but some are patterned. I'm planning to embroider the plain squares.
I wonder if putting 2 layers perpendicular to each with a temporary fuse would do the trick, that way the entire content is recycled. LLDS!
I have made a few and it is absolutely necessary for you to use a iron on stabilizer. Check out this video on YouTube. This company puts out so many videos on quick quilts that are fun to make. You will love it. I just finished making a quilt from baby clothes. When I figure out how to post a picture I will try.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JE...
It is by Missouri Quilt Company look for the one on T shirts.
One thing the quilting you do on it will also help to keep it from coming apart in the wash.
I used a pellon light to medium weight. 3 yards value pack for 84cents at Hancock Fabrics.
This is a fabulous site, I regularly visit there. Would love to see your quilt and would also like to be able to buy pellon for that price. Jan
I got my instructions and here.
I'm making one right now and bought Pelllon 906F sheer weight fusible for the t- shirts. I'm going to try one square and wash it because I'm worried about the wash results. My instructions say to iron on the fusible before cutting the square.
Oh Sewmom, I like the idea to test a square and wash it first! There must be something that works! please let us all know what your test shows. hugs, Jan
I don't use iron on stabilizer anymore because it goes yucky once washed. If you are embroidering on the tshirt I'd use the sheet & a tear away as backing. Let us know how it goes. Lyn. xx
There is a fabric dept iron on for knits.JUst ask the clerk. I think its 25-28 in wide and $3/yd aprox
I asked when I went-some clerks knew and some didnt
I've fallen in love with quilt basting spray (also sometimes called applique and embroidery positioning spray), so I'd spray glue each knit onto the sheet and then cut the squares. The glue will wash out but by that time you'll have the quilt all quilted up. :) xXx
If I was going to stitch jersey to jersey I would cut as carefully as possible (it likes to curl) Then stitch a straight stitch with a small zig to it. Like one usually does for sewing up a Tshirt.Pin and ease and After rows and columns are done you can see how nicely they will fit together. They all need their nice stretchy texture. Once that is done cut the batting to the best fit for your quilt top. Pat and ease the blocks When pinning with safety pins.
Only use the iron on cut away vilene behind embroidered designs, trim to design edges.
Here's where you use up all those scraps of WSS. Disolve them in warm water (you will need to experiment with the ratio) to create a medium-heavy starch. Use a spray bottle or old fashioned shaker top if you can find one (spray bottles clog) Cut apart the T-shirt starch and PRESS the fabric. Then cut into squares. The starch will help the T-shirt fabric keep it's shape until it's pieced and quilted. Note: Canned spray starch is to light for this.
That is a really interesting suggestion, but I'm working on quite a large scale!
How large? I was thinking probably queen size with 12 inch blocks. I think your idea with the sheet will work with the basting spray. Just use a really thin batting or no batting at all.
The American Quilt Society has a book about it if you are interested.
Iron-on interfacing works well. It keeps the t-shirt material from stretching and remains a part of the quilt to keep the shape. It also helps extend the life of worn shirt material.
You might be able to easily use sheeting -- if you use it with an iron-on spray like 606 spray on fusible.
I haven't used it myself yet, I am waiting until I have "extra" money. It was $11 per can and I don't have a project (except my UFO's) that I am working on to use it. Alas, if money didn't stand in the way of so many dreams.
Hi Sue, I have been wondering the same thing. I prefer to NOT use iron on, as when it washes it shrinks kind of pucker-y. I think the sheet idea, or some lightweight fabric would be how I would start... I think I'm going to make Ben a small quilt out of his old favorite t-shirts, and thought I'd probably do a raggy quilt as the knit should curl nicely around each of the blocks. But that is about project #12 for now! I'll love to know how this turns out when you do it! Hugs, Jan
Does it help at all if you spray starch (heavily) the fabric before you use iron-on? I use starch when I work with knits to prevent some of the stretch when sewing.
I can see where puckering in a quilt would be a problem.
I do think the spray adhesive might be a good solution.... I like the idea to test a square and wash it first!
Fabric should be clean with no fabric softener or anything for best iron on results. I would say no to starch.
Use a different iron on and be sure to follow the manufactures directions. They all are different times and heat settings.
I just use a very light weigh iron on stablizer. It always on sale and it adds just a little body to the quilt..... I iron it on before I cut out the square I want to use. Maybe a sheet would work but it might make it heavy. Can you get cheap stabizer where you are?