I am so glad you ask this question. I see you have gotten some wonderful answers. I must try some potholders one day. I have learned so much from all you cuties.
I have a Designer SE-
Because of the thickness I would hoop a heavy stabilizer alone then baste the potholder to the stabilizer with a light weight stabilizer on top of the potholder so the stitches can not sink into the material then
*simplest way ever would be to
1.stitch out each of the designs on a matching neutral color square a 1/2" larger than the potholder once you have your embroidery designs completed
2.then using water soluble interfacing cut out a potholder square matching the potholder front that is a 1/2" larger than the potholder.
3.with right sides together stitch around the embroidery square front and the water soluable interfacing. Sew the square completely closed then in the water soluable interfacing snip a 1-2" slit and turn the square right side out and iron well without steam or spray.
4. Cut some 1/2-1"wide strips of fusible interfacing and lay embroidery in the center of potholder and lightly fuse the embroidery to the potholder the square should be about a 1/4"-1/2" past the ditch of the bias tape stitching. Tack fuse to hold it in place. Now turn the pot holder over.
5.Using invisible thread sew a straight stitch in the ditch of the bias tape edge trim. or you could use decorative stitches or trim.
*easiest way is stitch a design on the one side then create an applique matching or coordinating with your design and use fusible web to iron on the applique on top of the threads on the back to cover them up. If you have the ability to embroider patches then create a patch you can mount with fusible web.
**still easy but a bit more work- stitch design then add a new back by stitching in the ditch around the existing bias.
*** medium difficulty - pick off the bias tape and back fabric if possible , stitch design, iron back and bias and reapply if it is a fabric you like.
****medium difficulty-Take off bias and backing, stitch design choose a new material for back and also create new bias tape to match back material also increase insulation by using the reflective surface or I have used insulation used to make curtains that block the heat or cold
I love to make pot holders and put the thermal interlining on the inside. They work great. You could easily do the 10 Minute Pot holders on YouTube as they self finish. They end up being 7 layers thick and are still flexible enough to hold onto a pot handle! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=si...
I have purchased potholders and embroidered on them. When I do this I always use the same thread in the bobbin as I am stitching with. Then the design looks good on both sides.
I have also made my own potholders. I quilt some fabric then embroider on it. Then I add another piece of fabric to the back and put binding around it. Good luck, Susan
If you are using a store bought pot holder, it may be to thick to get under your needle once you get some tearaway stabilizer on it. I've never have seen instructions for doing a store bought one, probably because of the problem you describe.
However, I'd simply embroider on a piece of fabric, finish off the edges, then stitch the fabric to the top of the pot holder. If you can embroider on the pot holder front itself, you'd have to cover the back by attaching a piece of fabric to cover it anyhow.
When i do pot holders i quilt them ith then last i add the backing and the frames you see on my collection on here from vicki(basketkase)There free frames in dbc hearts,squares apple etc.hugs carolyn
I never buy pot-holders to embroider, I make them from scratch and I like to use silver reflective fabric for the backs, (the kind they make ironing board covers from), it gives better protection from hot pots and pans.
IMO, there is nothing more useless than a pot-holder that doesn't reflect the heat, unless it is made purely for decorative purposes.
Hugs n roses, Meganne
I use one of my orphan quilt blocks or an embroidery test square and simply cover the back side. ;)