by sewred 08 Feb 2013

I need help ladies! Please? I want to do the free standing lace projects I've downloaded but must be doing something wrong. I'm hooping my 2 layers of wash-away stabilizer but it isn't thick enough because as my project gets going close to 3/4 of the way through my embroidery cut through it and then knots up. What am I doing wrong please?

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by lucypiwow 08 Feb 2013

I HAD THIS PROBLEM AT CHRISTMAS..I BOUGHT SOME TOP STABLIZER AND SOME BACKING STABLIZER AND DID MY DESIGNES AND NO TROUBLE..IBOUGHT IT FRON WORLD WINDER..IT IS GOOD.YOU CAN ALSO PUT SOME EXTRA PICES INBETWEEN THE 2 FOR EXTRA PROTECTION....LUCY

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by seamripper40 08 Feb 2013

Thanks for the info. It'll be very useful.

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by eastwitch2 edited 08 Feb 2013

World Weinder also carries both the Vilene water soluble and the Badgemaster in various sized rolls.

See Links below.

First link to the Vilene pages - make sure to just get the regular Vilene not the stitcky self adhesive vilene.

Second & Third Link - to pages with Badgemaster.


If you are in the USA they have free shipping on orders over $20.00 US.


Eastwitch2

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by AuntAnnie 08 Feb 2013

After you purchase new WSS to prevent additional shifting of the stabilizer, I recommend attaching some thin rubber shelf liner to your hoops. I have attached the link to the Criswell site for this tutorial. It really works!

Also, once the stabilizer is hooped, do not tighten the tension screw on the hoop. This causes fabric distortion which is another cause of FSL failure. Click on the second link to read some great information on hooping techniques from The Flying Needle. The referenced paragraph is about half way down.

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eastwitch2 by eastwitch2 edited 08 Feb 2013

You can click on each picture on the Criswell site to see each picture close up showing how to put the Shelf Liner on your hoop.
You can leave the shelf liner on your hoop as it will help hold any stabilizer or fabric and stabilizer taut in the hoop and prevent any movement in the hoop.

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by eastwitch2 08 Feb 2013

All Stitch carries both the heavy film - Badgemaster and the Vilene Water Soluble which is theFibrous type.
The Fibrous type of water soluble rinses out easily in warm or cold water.
The Film - Bagemaster has to be soak for a good length of time to get it out.
EastWitch2
Link below

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by eastwitch2 edited 08 Feb 2013

Which water soluble stabilizer are you using.


You could try using another layer of water soluble especially in the area where it is cutting through the stabilizer.

There are 2 types of water soluble that are really great for FSL embroidery.

One is a heavy weight Film type such as Badgemaster or Ultra Solvy.

The other is the Fibrous type such as Vilene water soluble, or Wash Away, or Aqua Magic or Wet N Gone.

The Fibrous type of water soluble will not punch out or rip.

For these 2 types it is suggested to use 2 layers for FSL designs that have a high stitch count or many layers of stitches that are on top of each other.

Try using the Fibrous type as I am sure you will like it and will not have your designs ruined.

Make sure to use a size 75/11 or 80/12 sharp point needle and always start with a new needle.

EastWitch2

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by mops Moderator 08 Feb 2013

What type of wss are you using? The non-woven type works well, especially if you use two layers. The plastic type stuff is only worth using if it's 60 micron (sometimes called badgemaster), the thinner 20 micron are only to be used as a topper.

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sewred by sewred 08 Feb 2013

I only have solvy kind it's really light weight. Where can I get the thicker stuff?

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