Deanna - I have done loads of towels in the past and have never had any problems with sinking stitches. I hoop medium tearaway, stick the towel on to the tearaway and put WSS on the top.
those are beautifull...what I would like to see is the back side of them...do they look like a mess from all the color changes...because if they use the towels, are they going to look bad on the back...I know when I stitch designs out with lots of color changes, there is a lot of threads loose or crossing over....
click on my name i have made a few towels you might get an idea there hugs
I might try using a lightly "embossed" rectangle, circle..whatever the frog design would fit into to hold down the towel pile..then embroider the frogs over the embossed area using WSS on top...if we could see the design, it might help...
I have done some towels lately - borders near the bottom. I find that even with vilene on the top the stitches still sink (and the back looks better where the sticky vilene was - than the front). I think for a heavier design I would do the fabric and then sew it to the towel as a patch. I would use a color thread to match the towel in the bottom so it is not as noticable when stitched to the towel. I would put heat/bond or some other double side fusible on the back of the fabric. That will seal it to the towel when you are done.
Very interesting question camylow. I have tried two methods. I stitch out on satin and use 2 layers of vilene back to back - sticky sides facing out, if the design is not completely filled, like a butterfly. Cut around butterfly and iron onto towel. Using a small zig-zag stitch in a corresponding colour attach it to the towel, making sure my underside stitching is same colour as the towel and it's hardly noticeable. I have also used stitch-outs on a plain coloured fabric cut into a square and stitch a thin satin ribbon all around as a border to attach design to towel or any other item - a good way to use up good test stitch-outs. I only use small 4x4's. Hope you get some more ideas.
Hi there, I would then do it on the fabric and then applique with a frame onto the towel.
So that you are not just stitching the patch onto the towel.
Hugs Yvonne
I would use a medium weight tear away on the bottom and WSS on the top, but I would be interested to see how yours turns out.
I'm going to be watching for responses too. All of the towels I have bought already embroidered are thick from the stitching and curl or buckle up after washing. I'm afraid to try to make my own if they all will look like that and I don't have time to iron my towels and dish towels after every wash.
I usually make a open cross hatch filling, like an fsl background but less dense so it just holds the loops of the towel down, same shape as the embroidery, colour of the towel and leave out the underlay of the design. I use water soluble stabiliser at the back, so I end up with a design that is pliable and yet does not sink in the loops or gets misshapen after a lot of laundering.
Easy for me to do in my software, especially if I made the design myself.
Do you have a picture of a towel you have done before you could post for me????
Why not stitch directly on the towel? Use tear-away on the back and WSS on top.
If you ultimately decide to use the applique method, keep in mind that the "patch" will be slightly raised over the fluffy towel. Make the fabric piece large enough to fold under the edges to prevent any frayed edges from making an appearance (esp.) after repeated washings. (Hint: practice first!)
I do not like the look of designs from the back...to many cross threads showing...and even if you cut them off it doesn't look as neat and tidy...that is why I thought it might be better to do on fabric first and make an (oval) patch sewed on nicely???
Use the same color thread in the bottom to get similar front and back results.