I looked but could not find a video -- so I will just try to explain. Cone threads are wound differently from spools. Spools need to have thread come off the spool different from a cone. Think of a ribbon spool. If you pull it straight, then it comes off smooth and straight. If you lay it down on a table and pull it up, it will twist and cross. (I hope that made some sense) You may need an adapter like my Babylock machine does.
I am sure others will have great ideas for you to try too.

My only tip, which I am not willing to do myself. Floriani metallic thread is encased in something and it stitches much like regular thread. But, and you knew there was a BUT.... it is quite pricey.

Sorry to hear you have been having so many problems...I have been using metallic thread for FSL in both the top and bobbin areas...no problems. I use a 80/12 Embroidery Needle (larger eye than a standard needle). I believe a lot depends upon the brand of thread. I am very successful with Madeira, Superior, Floriani, and Sulky. Not so good with Coats & Clark. I use the large 5000 meter Madeira cones and need to use a tall thread stand and I also use a net over the cone. If I use the small spools, I always turn them sideways so they will unroll like a roll of toilet paper. If I do not, the thread keeps twisting off the spool, gets knotted and breaks horribly. Some like Jerrilyn use a packing peanut and thread the metallic thread through the packing peanut with a needle and the peanut sits on the top of the machine just before the threading into the machine begins. I use one layer of woven WSS hooped with a rubber hoop helper on the sides to prevent the WSS from slipping. I usually loosen the tension from 4.0 down to 3.0 on my BabyLock, but rarely slow the speed down (usually keep at 1000 spm)...It could be the design you are using has not been digitized well...I am using a Sonia Showalter angel and her designs are spectacular. If you wanted to test to see if it was the design, I would use one of hers to see how it stitches out. Sewmom had a terrible time with using metallic thread and found that she needed to place the thread spool horizontally and have it roll off like a roll of TP as I mentioned above.) Here is the link to her post...good luck and keep us posted!

I just made a quick and very inexpensive (possible) solution. The plastic cup will need some weight (coins or marbles might work) or glue it to something like a block of wood to prevent it from tipping over. The pink wire is just a large paperclip. (It may need to be bent to prevent the spool from bumping the side of the cup) I used a hole punch to make the side holes. They should line up.

I have a couple of doctor appointments today or I would test it -- I need to do something fun so this would be a good excuse. ;) Maybe tomorrow.

The only thing not said and i do it all except i put my thread stand on the floor so it has a long way to go and works perfect ***also slow it down and decrease tension from 4 to 3 hugs

I had a heck of a time using metallic in my bernina machine.....like you it kept breaking constantly.....I did have luck using a metallic needle and Yenmet metallic......I use Yenmet now even in my Melco with great success.........I got the thread on the internet........

The only thread I never have problems with is King Star. I've used the metallic on top and the bobbin to do FSL. Some of the other threads I have to use Sewers Aid on the spool. Also, this sounds crazy, but I put the thread through a packing peanut before going into the machine. I got this hint from another forum and it does work. I simply thread a needle with the metallic thread and push the threaded needle through the peanut then thread the machine.

I have been successful as long as I put the thread on a thread stand away from the machine. I have not had to change needles or tensions. I've been told the distance gives the thread time to cool down. whatever the reason, as long as it works. If you don't have a heavy thread stand, put the spool in a large mug or glass and monitor it that it doesn't fly out. Btw, it does not have to be far from the machine as long as the thread's path is clear. Let us know what works for you and be sure to post your project in the Projects section. You may need to put the metallic thread in the bobbin also.

I don't have much to add to the great suggestions already offered. There is an article somewhere out there on the web that explains that spools of thread are usually wound differently from cones of thread. The cones should be fixed horizontally and the thread should pull off the top and the spools should be placed vertically and allowed to rotate with the thread pulling off from the side. I can also add that I have had very good success with Robison-Anton metallics.

A very good YouTube demonstration on metallic thread.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnO5K6AA2sY&t=92s

for one thing your needle is too small but let me just share how I learnt to stitch metallic thread without heartache......

The best information I have ever followed, for using metallic threads, is to be found at the link below.
The best metallic THREADS and the absolute best Topstitch needles, for use with metallic threads, will also be found at the same link

Now having said all this, I would not recommend stitching a whole FSL design with metallic thread UNLESS you are using Superior Metallic threads and needles and you follow their advice for stitching out.

There isn't ONE secret trick, it is the combination of all his advice that makes it work.

I still might think twice about using metallic thread for a WHOLE FSL design.
I would probably be very selective about the way the design is digitised and I would probably prefer to choose one where ALL the underlay stitching is completed before moving on to the main top layer and I might only stitch the top layer with the metallic thread.

Obvious reason? FSL, by it's very nature, is far too dense to stitch the whole design with metallic thread.
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Just my two bob's worth. :-)

You need to feed the thread horizontally. It feeds better that way and also do all of the above things you mentioned. Good luck, Carol

Just finished, last night, a dozen FSL owlsl using maderia metallic thread on top and matching embroidery thread in the bobbin. The needle was Superior top stitch and the speed of the Viking Royale was reduced about a forth. Absolutely no touching of any other settings. Now, with this and all the other wonderful comments, you can stay confused for at least a year. Jobaby