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234507
by pennifold 14 Mar 2009 ( edited Mar 15'09 00:15 )
+31

answers in the morning from people on the other side of the world who are just waking up. Love and blessings Chris in Newcastle, Australia.

Comments (10)
3439
by blessinge 14 Mar 2009
+4
You might like to take a look at Embroidery Library's project page with help on lots of embroidery questions.
http://www.embroiderylibraryprojects.com/
Scroll down the page, on the left side, close to the bottom is a section named Techniques and Guides, under that is a stabilizer guide. Also, look under Kenny's Archives on the left side for help.
Good luck
Ardith
1 comment
by pennifold 15 Mar 2009
Thankyou for the advice. Love and blessings Chris
27382
by mpo14011 14 Mar 2009
+3
Chris, For T-shirts use iron tear away stabilizer. Check the stitches if you more then 10,000 stitches in the design slip another layer of normal tear away under the hoop. You should also consider that a lot of the designs have not been digitized to go on stretch knit fabrics.
For FSL use 2 layers of WSS vilene.
1 comment
by pennifold 15 Mar 2009
Thankyou for the advice. Love and blessings Chris
33451
by marjialexa 14 Mar 2009
+5
Hi, Chris, hope you wake up to the great answers you'll get here (just probably not from me, hee hee hee). I hate T-shirts, because I've never found the right stabilizer, apparently. The pretty soft ones, like Floriani, don't seem to support the designs well. I've used 505 to stick them down, but I'm seldom truly happy with the results. I'll bet Jerrilyn (jrob) has a solution for this, though, and so will others who do T's. I'm going to check back to see the answers, too. I do know the FSL one, though, hee hee hee. It's the water soluble stabilizer that looks like fabric, not plastic wrap. Yay!! See, I've learned something being here. Have a great day, Chris! Hugs, Marji
2 comments
by pennifold 15 Mar 2009
Thankyou for the advice. Love and blessings Chris
by pennifold 15 Mar 2009
All the answers have been great.
122864
by meganne 14 Mar 2009
+5
for t shirts, check out the latest newsletter from SICK
For FSL I only use fabric type WSS, I buy mine from ABC, it might seem expensive but it's worth the extra, it's on sale now
hugs n roses, Meganne
2 links:
[1] t-shirt emb.
www.designsbysick.com
[2] WSS
www.abc-machine-embroidery-designs.com
1 comment
by shirlener88 14 Mar 2009
If you can - look for the sales and stock up then.
158718
by jrob 14 Mar 2009
+4
Chris, we all have our "own" favorite ways of doing things. I do lots and lots of t's and I always use OESD PolyMesh Cut-Away. It is very stable and yet soft. I Hoop one or two pieces with my garment (it won't stretch if you hoop it WITH stabilizer)and I attach it with 505 Spray and Fix (doesn't gum my needle). I also pin on a thin, clear WSS so my design doesn't sink into the fabric. After I'm finished I use Cover the Back from Sulky to make it even softer and it also takes care of the thread tails. I do always test a design first on the same type material I am doing the finished project on. If it is extremely heavily digitized and just HAS to go on a T-Shirt I'll float another layer of tear away. My T-shirts always lay flat and look nice and don't have to be ironed back into shape! Go shop in your closet for that old t-shirt you've had awhile and Spark it up and make it new again!

2. Look to some of the FSL peeps for answers there.
211079
by shirlener88 14 Mar 2009
+5
Chris, I have a wonderful stabilizer for Tee's - that I bought from Elizabeths Embroideries - http://www.elizabethsembroideries.com - she had a great sale - just recently and more than likely is still willing to honor that sale price. I have enough that I can do a Tee as often as I want and then some, Hehehe! As for stabilizer for FSL - I love the mesh looking kind - most call it Poly Mesh Cut Away - I use two layers of it and I have always enjoyed the outcome of any of brands - that I have used. Only with a rather dense design - have I had to use more than the two layers. Buy the largest quantity of it - that you can find - if you plan on doing a lot of FSL - because it sure does become addictive. Hehehe! Enjoy, Shirlene
1 comment
by pennifold 15 Mar 2009
Thanks for the great instructions - sounds like it is going to be a bit of fun. Love and blessings Chris
11500
by caydebug 14 Mar 2009
+4
Hi Chris, I have used both for the fsl. Fabric type and the plastic type. Both Sulky brand. I use the plastic type the most. I just love it and have very little problems out of it. It will, when rinseing away, leave the project stiffer than the fabric type. I haven't done any t-shirts yet, so can't answer that one. I have never had to double the layer with the plastic type although I have with the fabric type. I go to Ebay and purchase mine, it is much cheaper and I get fantastic results.
145305
by mops 14 Mar 2009
+3
I see you've got a lot of answers already.
For tees I use iron-on cutaway and thin plastic type wss on top. And use a very thin stretch iron-on vilene at the back afterwards (can't get the type jrob recommends over here.
For FSL 80 micron wss (the plastic type), one layer suffices; I've done 5 bookmarks in one hooping without any prblem with this stuff.
Hope too much advice does not confuse you!! ;) Martine
211079
by shirlener88 14 Mar 2009
+4
Here is a great sale going on right now.
1 links:
[1] WSS
shoppersrule.com
1 comment
by pennifold 15 Mar 2009
Thanks Shirlene - but I'll have to try and buy some from Australia - it will be a bit cheaper than me buying it from the States. Love and blessings Chris
34304
by adelmarie 15 Mar 2009
+2
You have some very god answers *2U
1 comment
by pennifold 15 Mar 2009
Yes, I agree thanks Love Chris