1784✽
Ok - I've managed to finally stitch out all 3 pieces of 20,000+ stitches each (yippee - changing thread worked - must have been yucky thread).... So now that I've trimmed away as much as I can, how long do I soak. This is one of those things that gets sewn together so it needs to have some stiffness left to it. Is it just a couple minutes to get a bit of the stiffner out of it (the longer I let it soak, the softer it gets right?)... Next question, can someone point me to a good FSL tutorial? I still have the link to buy the Vilene at $5.50/yd and after my trip into town this weekend to make sure I can't buy it at Hancock Fabrics I'll get it from there. But is there a tutorial that tells me how many layers to hoop after a certain # of stitches when to put another layer under the hoop, when to add a layer on top (I know for towels, but is there any other time?) I guess I just need a good stabilizer tutorial. So far I haven't had anything fall apart, but I'm starting to make my own designs now (yippee!!) and I really don't want them to fall apart so it will matter more. I'm mostly going to embroider on broadcloth and canvas - at least the designs that I'm digitizing myself for my store...
Comments (6)
145791✽
Katrina Shirlene is our FSL Guru here on cute & I believe she would be more than glad to help you. Send her a PM I believe it is shirlener88. Sounds like you are doing a teriffic job so far.
2 comments
Thanks Miss Lil for your comment.
Thank you thank you. PM is on the way!!
1993✽
I have done quite a few pieces of lace, as have my friends. We use two layers of the water soluble vilene for all our lace, regardless of the number of stitches. So far we haven't had any failures. A good example of stitch density is the Sue Box lace designs. Very stitch intense but they stitch our beautifully. We sew them together before we wash them.
1 comment
Sue Box has amazing designs. They are all so beautiful. I wonder what her inspiration is because I just haven't seen an ugly piece yet! Thank you so much for the tips!!
32948✽
by
jofrog2000
12 Apr 2011
+5✽
I have found that I prefer to sew the pieces together before I soak the item. Just use a clean wet sponge to clean up the edges-or on some, I got one side down to the thread, and laid it on top of the adjoining side and let it sit a bit so the wet part started sticking to the other side. It depends on the the design whether the soaked pieces maintain their shape or need to be blocked. And some pieces are so airy and delicate that you can't hold them properly after soaking.
I started with Ultra Solvy-very thick-and had no problems with one layer of it. Than I found Vilene. Mostly I just use one layer, have never had it rip. If I feel something might be stitch intensive, I have floated a second piece on the bottom
Jo
I started with Ultra Solvy-very thick-and had no problems with one layer of it. Than I found Vilene. Mostly I just use one layer, have never had it rip. If I feel something might be stitch intensive, I have floated a second piece on the bottom
Jo
1 links:
[1]
http://advanced-embroidery-designs.com/projects/guide_bowl_instructions.html
advanced-embroidery-designs.com
3 comments
Thanks for this link!
thank you so much! I bought Ultra Solvy last time I was at the store but I haven't even opened it yet. Last time I asked Shirlene told me to use the material type of WSS which I happened to find when I was moving in more boxes from my garage (you know 9 mos and I'm still not moved into my house!) so I was excited because I can't find the stuff at the store!!! Just enough to do this project :)
I am one of the few that uses the Ultra solvy and have been very pleased with it, so I never changed over to any thing else.
When I first started I followed the instructions at emblibrary and that's what they used and recommened.
When I first started I followed the instructions at emblibrary and that's what they used and recommened.
145305✽
Sew them together before you soak them.
As far as digitising them is concerned: have a good look in your software how they stitch out, zoomed in, so you can see if there are any unconnected pieces. Stitches should overlap slightly if you make a fancy stitch yourself, to be sewn once or they should cross at certain angles (0, 45, 90 and 135 degrees or 60, 120 and 180 for instance). Correct anything you can see in your software before you start stitching it out. And try to avoid any jumps, and make connection stitches. It makes the design so much more fun to stitch out. I'm looking forward to seeing your creations.
As far as digitising them is concerned: have a good look in your software how they stitch out, zoomed in, so you can see if there are any unconnected pieces. Stitches should overlap slightly if you make a fancy stitch yourself, to be sewn once or they should cross at certain angles (0, 45, 90 and 135 degrees or 60, 120 and 180 for instance). Correct anything you can see in your software before you start stitching it out. And try to avoid any jumps, and make connection stitches. It makes the design so much more fun to stitch out. I'm looking forward to seeing your creations.
1 comment
Wow - I'm totally not brave enough to do this yet!! I wish I was. I think I'll save that for next year :) But I'm going to mark this post so when I do get brave enough I can come back and remember how to do this!
33580✽
Thanks for the question! I have only done ornaments so far and always use 2 layers of the fiber wss. I like my ornaments stiff so I only hold it in my hand and run very warm water over it till the wss is gone. I but it at JoAnn's, they have it on the bolt and in packages by Sulky but I also have the Vilene. I would never have thought to sew a bowl or doily together before soaking so I am so glad you asked. I'll have to see what Shirlene has to say on the matter too, she's the expert!
1 comment
You can find the fiber wss at your JoAnns? I'm so jealous. I can't find it at mine! They used to sell it at Walmart for about $1.50 per yard and they don't anymore. I'm at a loss. I'm going to town and hope I can find some, if not, I'm going to order it. I'm down to my last 2 feet!!!
211079✽
by
shirlener88
12 Apr 2011
+2✽
It sounds like your designs that you will be using broadcloth and canvas will not be FSL, if they are - I do hope that you are 1st stitching them out and then placing them on top of the item - as that gives the FSL a true LACE look.
I generally use two pieces of the mesh looking WSS in my hoop - with the same thread in the top and bobbin. Once I have stitched all the items for the project - I will cut away close to the stitching - around the design - except the sides that will be stitched together and I leave one side (generally the right - in my case) on all pieces slightly larger - so when I place the left to the right - the left is stacked and aligned on top of the right for the stitching along this outline.
I don't often soak my item unless it is a doily that I want to have all the WSS rinsed out and the length of time I soak it - depends on the desired effect - I like to run a stream of water and rinse each piece under it - if the item is a bowl or box - that needs to be slightly stiff - I can usually tell by the stickyness of the thread - I like my items softer - so I rinse them alot - however - there are a few that do need the stiffness - if it is a complicated item - that has lots of parts - I don't stitch the pieces together - until after I have rinsed out the WSS - that way I can dry them flat and not have ripples in the design - so if you are still following me - the piece now needs to be blotted between two pieces of toweling and laid flat - I use a hair blower to dry my FSL - most lay their's flat and air dry.
I hope with this and what the other CUTE members have written - you will gain some encouragement to finish up your LACE item and take pictures of it and share it with us in the PROJECT section here - to inspire others.
Here is a tutorial on a Angel Tree Topper - it has multiple parts that need to be stitched together - from this - perhaps you can get more info:
I generally use two pieces of the mesh looking WSS in my hoop - with the same thread in the top and bobbin. Once I have stitched all the items for the project - I will cut away close to the stitching - around the design - except the sides that will be stitched together and I leave one side (generally the right - in my case) on all pieces slightly larger - so when I place the left to the right - the left is stacked and aligned on top of the right for the stitching along this outline.
I don't often soak my item unless it is a doily that I want to have all the WSS rinsed out and the length of time I soak it - depends on the desired effect - I like to run a stream of water and rinse each piece under it - if the item is a bowl or box - that needs to be slightly stiff - I can usually tell by the stickyness of the thread - I like my items softer - so I rinse them alot - however - there are a few that do need the stiffness - if it is a complicated item - that has lots of parts - I don't stitch the pieces together - until after I have rinsed out the WSS - that way I can dry them flat and not have ripples in the design - so if you are still following me - the piece now needs to be blotted between two pieces of toweling and laid flat - I use a hair blower to dry my FSL - most lay their's flat and air dry.
I hope with this and what the other CUTE members have written - you will gain some encouragement to finish up your LACE item and take pictures of it and share it with us in the PROJECT section here - to inspire others.
Here is a tutorial on a Angel Tree Topper - it has multiple parts that need to be stitched together - from this - perhaps you can get more info:
1 links:
[1]
Angel Tree Topper
www.emblibrary.com
1 comment
ooh - you are right - some of them are actually applique type pieces where you have to cut apart the pieces and trim away the stabilizer from the sides. I found that the plasticy stuff you can't use because you can't cut the applique on it without tearing the stabilizer and tear away seems to be too thick and leaves yucky edges - so I thought the WSS vilene type would be good because I could just wet away the extra.