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3597
by petdenhan 11 Nov 2011 ( edited Nov 14'11 11:18 )
+29

hi does anybody know if you have to change the needles for when you sew stretchy fabric...ie T-shirts as every time I sew it puckers up and makes a huge knot....I have just got the Innovis 4000 (Brother)please help as I have to keep replacing these shirts I mess up....thanks

Denise

Comments (8)
4081
by lrichardson 11 Nov 2011
+5
I find that the biggest factor with tshirts is the stabilizer. It was recommended to me to use two sheets of cut away, and I resisted this for a long time. When I finally did this, I had a lot less problems. As far as needles are concerned, I find that just using a new one is more important than the type for tshirts. Good luck.
1 comment
by petdenhan 11 Nov 2011
thank you ..do you use the one sheet on top and the other under the material ...or both under...?? thanks for advise...XD
12500
by anangel 11 Nov 2011
+4
I find that knits, such as t-shirts, stitch with a nicer finished design, and hold up through repeated washings without puckering and curling when stablilized in the following manner. (1) Iron on a small piece of fusible stabilizer to the back of the fabric where the design will be stitched, careful when ironing not to stretch the knit fabric. (2) Hoop a piece of light/medium weight cut-a-way stablilizer. (3) Lightly spray the fusible with K2000 fabric adhesive, then align and press gently to position on the hooped cut-a-way. (4) Place a piece of wss on top to keep the stitches from sinking into the knit fabric. After stitching the design, I remove the excess wss from the top, then trim the cut-away to 1/8 inch around the edge of the design inside the t-shirt. I have tried many different ways stitching t-shirts, and this method has proven to be the best. I do not like hoopburn on t-shirts, so I prefer to not hoop, and, too, it is so easy to stretch knit fabric when hooping.
Hope this helps.
Angel
3 comments
by anangel 11 Nov 2011
I forgot to add that you can pull any excess fusible loose around the design
after stitching, and trim it along with the cut-a-way to the 1/8 inch around the
design.
Angel
by jofrog2000 11 Nov 2011
This is how I do them. Started with a paper backed iron-on, which worked okay, then found a fusible mesh that I like even better. I pin the T to the stabilizer also.
by petdenhan 11 Nov 2011
fantastic thank you so very much for the useful information... I will let you know how I get on....xD
2281
by louisecockeran 11 Nov 2011
+2
Thanks for asking this question because i'm battling with t-shirts myself and I have 2 t-shirts I want to do before Monday but are to scared because its not mine. I find that when the design have a outline it isnt always done neatly.
1 comment
by petdenhan 11 Nov 2011
Good luck have you seen the comments...
33580
by leenova54 11 Nov 2011
+2
Make sure you use a ball point needle also because the sharp one can cut the fabric rather than slide through.
2 comments
by petdenhan 11 Nov 2011
thank you....will get one...XD
by roberta 16 Nov 2011
You could make a patch on a different kind of material such a cotton and zigzag it on to the t-shirt, especially if it has a lot of stitches, like 20,000 or more. You sure won't ruin one then. Roberta
6515
by madrocki 11 Nov 2011
+1
I have tried embroidering tshirts but have given up, never happy with them, so Angel's comments give me more hope and I will try again.
thank you.
5046
by nama2 11 Nov 2011
+1
I second the ball point needle answer. Good answer from anangel-good luck!
2281
by louisecockeran 11 Nov 2011
+1
I tried the two sheets of cutaway and it worked thank you for the useful tips!!
16302
by justonlyme 11 Nov 2011
+1
Ball point needle and stabilizer. I've found that a fusible cut away, or fusible leave-in stabilizer works very well. I think I have half a billion yards or so of t-shirt fabric, so have been practicing lots. That has been my solution combination. A topper layer of a WSS or iron away stabilizer really helps if your embroidery foot tends to "gouge" the fabric and pull it out of shape. Good luck!!