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This is what I learned at embroidery class yesterday. Cotton material using a dense design. Wash cotton material first. Iron on fusible interfacing, just the cheap stuff. Put design in machine, enlarge design slightly, Hoop material. Slip a piece of tear-a-way stabilizer under the hoop. if you are doing a design with 7000 stitches put 1 sheet, if you do a design 7001 to 20000 stitches put 2 sheets of tear-a-way, if you do over 20,000 put 3 or 4 sheets of tear-a-way under hoop. They say there should be no pucking. LOL Just thought I would share. We have to make a mystery quilt. The sample was dense and beautiful
Comments (26)
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Hope you're right,hehehe.Thanks.
1 comment
this comes from a babylock dealer, a quilter and 2 ladies who sew, they are our teachers for our embroidery retreat at the end of Feb.
25212✽
by
killiecrankie
01 Feb 2012
+9✽
You have to take into account the size of the design as well as stitch count .I have done a design with over 31,000 sts with only 1 layer of stabilizer because it was 8"x10" not a sm 4x4 design
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on cotton?
85867✽
Have never used 4 sheets, must really be a heavy design. What class did you attend? I guess I mean what machine do you have? Kay
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we have a class once a month at our babylock dealer.
Thanks for sharing your class with us! I too have a Esante and the Ellageo. I have some problems with the Ellageo sometimes. This is nice to know!
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louisecockeran
01 Feb 2012
+9✽
Thanks for the tip I've done something last week on thin cotton and it would not embroider nice so I will try this tip. Hugs Louise
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With all that stabilizer you would have a patch! But it is true, eveything you said. The only thing you did not mention was the thread weight, just like poly, rayon, and any other kind the weight per inch or density of the thread is what is different. The silkiness of the thread can affect thread tension but not design density. make sense? LLDS!
2 comments
the first layer is fusible interfacing, which is very thin, the nest is your stabilizer. the rest is tearaway, so when its done, you really only have one layer of stabilizer. you tear the rest off. the weight of your thread was not mentioned. we use 40 wt. sulky or I have metro poly.
that should be next is you stabilizer. we use 40 wt. sulky or I use metro poly.
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shirlener88
01 Feb 2012
+7✽
Lily, so happy to know you are taking embroidery lessons - keep on stitching and share your items with us in PROJECTS - we would love to be inspired by your work and what you are learning.
1 comment
I know, its the taking of pictures, I don't do well at.
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lindalee757
01 Feb 2012
+6✽
Thanks for passing on this tip Sandy-I have posted it next to my machines ~linda~
1 comment
Your Welcome, hope it works.LOLK
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bettytaylor
01 Feb 2012
+4✽
thanks for sharing your info. this should help. Betty
1 comment
your welcome
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dailylaundry
01 Feb 2012
+3✽
I have always had problems with puckering! I will make a note of this and try it next time!! Thanks for sharing!! Hugs, Laura*
1 comment
your welcome, we have to do 16 blocks for a mystery quilt, so I hope it works. LOL
37638✽
I just made all my blocks of cotton for Uganda quilt
and I used Emblibrary which are super dense. I agree
they need density adjustment. I used 2 sheets of tearaway hooped and a lightweight stabilizer pinned
and fabric pinned. I think your way would be better
when not hooping the cotton. Thanks for the tip.
Hugs
Linda aka Bumblebee
and I used Emblibrary which are super dense. I agree
they need density adjustment. I used 2 sheets of tearaway hooped and a lightweight stabilizer pinned
and fabric pinned. I think your way would be better
when not hooping the cotton. Thanks for the tip.
Hugs
Linda aka Bumblebee
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How thick/thin was the cotton?
Would this be good for 100% cotton muslin?
I always wash my material first. I think that helps a lot.
MJDG
Would this be good for 100% cotton muslin?
I always wash my material first. I think that helps a lot.
MJDG
2 comments
They probably were talking about quilters cotton, but today I tried a 100% cotton and did the fusible interfacing and two layers of tearaway and did 18,000 stitches and it turned out beautiful, wish I could do pictures!
Thanks,
I am going to try this technique on some of my muslin..as soon as I can grab the time.. will let you know how it turns out.....
I am going to try this technique on some of my muslin..as soon as I can grab the time.. will let you know how it turns out.....
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I'm going to try this. Hooping the fabric with the thin interfacing would be easier on the hoop than trying to hoop thicker stabiliser. Interfacing should stop the fabric from stretching, too, shouldn't it? I get really annoyed when I spend a long time on a design and then see even slight puckering.
AlmaG.
AlmaG.
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by
vickiannette
03 Feb 2012
+2✽
thankyou. I will try this. I have some tearaway which is great, but very thick and it spoiled one of my hoops. I got it from a professional embroiderer who uses a big 10 needle Taijama (not sure of spelling).
7314✽
where are you,I have looked for embroidery classes clubs or groups and could not find any,I live in Cheshire.uk
2 comments
northern Minnesota, a few miles away.
Thank you for reply a bit to far for me
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by
jofrog2000
03 Feb 2012
+1✽
Now, how much of the material did you put the stabilizer on? Enough to go outside the hoop, I'm guessing. And the interfacing light like the stuff we iron on over the back of a finished design?
2 comments
large enough to cover where you are embroidering your design. The fusible interfacing is the kind you use for regular sewing.
thanks
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by
designcrazy
03 Feb 2012
+1✽
Thanks for this informatiom. When you are finished with the stitching do you remove the interfacing also?
1 comment
no, just tearaway
1996✽
I've certainly heard about using interfacing and extra tearaway for dense designs - but I wonder why they recommend enlarging the design slightly? Looking at all these answers, you'll have some questions to ask at your next class. Look forward to any other comments on this topic.
1 comment
this is for dense designs