Two layers of what sort of stabiliser? For FSL it is best to use type of water soluble stabiliser that looks like woven fabric or the 'plastic' type like Badgemaster (which is 80 micron instead of the 20 micron you use on top of fabrics like fleece), two thin layers don't do the trick.

I have done lots of FSL and I use either Badgemaster or ULTRA Solvy and have had no problems.

Regular Solvy is probably not strong enough for FSL - even with two layers. I use "Vilene" - the kind that looks like fabric with good results. I have used the one from WorldWeidner.com and the Floriani brand. I know lots of folks shop at "All Sorts

You have already received some good answers. Just wanted to say that I use heavy weight badgemaster for FSL designs. Some designs that have a lot of stitches I use 2 layers of heavy badgemaster.

It is awful to get to the end of a design like you did and have it destroyed. I had that happen to me a few times until I started using badgemaster. I always felt that I had wasted my time, my thread, bobbin, supplies, etc. Plus it is a real down hit to your enthusiasm for the day.

I get badgemaster in rolls from Allstitch. Below I will give you their direct link. In case the link does not work you can copy and paste this to your address bar.

http://www.allstitch.net/department/machine-embroidery-stabilizers-embroidery-backings-for-home-commercial-embroidery-machines-10000.cfm

Marcelle

I restart at a position before the break and restabilize. Just cut a piece of scrap larger than the break, wet oneside and it will stick to itself, and the thread already stitched. All is not lost unless something happens and for some reason the pattern shifts, which has happened once. Live Laugh Download Stitch!

So sorry that this happened to you, but we learn from mistakes like this. I use Vilene, or Badgemaster. It really depends on how dense teh design for the lace is. I know that is about the same answers as others have given...but we have all learned from our mistakes. Or we at least hope we did.

Hi Pam,
I made the observation 4 years ago when I started doing machine embroidery that its a very wasteful hobby. There's only so much temporary fabric glue you can make out of scraps of wss... I'd have gallons of it by now if I'd done that. However, I do use scraps of wss in between layers especially when doing stitch heavy designs. Trial and error is a frustrating way of learning, but sometimes its unavoidable. Hang in there.
Liz

I have found that no matter what you are now and then going to get one that doesn't work. I always use 2 layers of Vilene and it just goes bonkers now and then and I have to trash it. I'll bet that even our queen of FSL, Shirlener88 even has one now and then! Hugs, Debra

I've found that using Vilene (the water soluble "fabric style" stabilizer) works the best. One layer works for most designs. Be sure to not hoop your stabilizer drum tight or it will pull and distort.
Another thing I've found with FSL is that sometimes I get very nice results from putting in a layer of tulle or organza. The FSL will be more sturdy and little bloopers can be easily overlooked or not even noticed.
I've heard lots of people cry after trying to use the clear WSS for a FSL. Good luck. Hang in there and give it another go!!

there are some really good answers here good luck

Pam, whose design did you use - please let the designer know - in case there is something wrong with the design - how many stitches were in the design? And as everyone else has suggested for you to use two layers of the fabric mesh looking WSS - is best - but even some have to have an additional layer - if the stitch count is very high.

Thank you all you wonderfull Cuties. with your help I now feel confident enough to have another go as soon as my new WSS arrives.
Hugs Pam.

You have lots of wonderful advise on what products to use. I agrre totaooy. I save all my scraps, all of them. When a potential "boo boo" rears it's ugly little head, I place a scrap over that area and sometimes under that area. I started doing this years ago and used up most of my "cheap" wss this way. I often hoop 2 layers of 'not so good wss' and use my big 360x200 hoop and place many designs in it and as a design starts to sew out I place a woven type wss over that area. I have great success with this method even though I have been told not to do lace this way.