8037✽
Hi
I need some advice from our experienced digitizers. Due to the nature of my designs, I have often a lighter colour overlapping a darker colour.
This result in the darker colour showing through, which look terrible. A way to over come this, is to add the lighter colour twice, or to add parts of the lighter colour twice.
If we look at the face ringed by petals in the picture shown, the flower petals must be embroidered first, the face second, the hair third, and the ribbon fourth. However, to make sure that there are no gaps between the petals and the face, and the petals and the hair, they have to overlap slightly. So the overlapping parts have blue showing through.
If we look at the hands, they also partially overlap the petals. So a part is pink, and a part is pink with blue showing through.
I normally embroider the lighter colour twice.
How do you get rid of that, so that the face and hands are pink, and the hair yellow, with no blue showing through?
The picture shown is my first pass through, and obviously still needs a lot of work, so please remember it is work in progress just started! It is generated by Embird. I did not take a picture of the stitchout, as I can only do that in day time.
I would really appreciate your input.
Best regards
Anneliese
1 images:
[1]
Comments (6)
145305✽
I would never stitch parts twice, it makes the embroidery far too dense which would unavoidably result in puckering (the normal outcome of too high a density - 4.5 to 4.8 is low enough for cotton, felt allows lower values, like the default 4.0). Those settings are for Embird.
I hardly ever digitise overlaps but digitise a general underlay and set a pull compensation of 0.3 or 0.4. That gives gap free results in 99 % of the cases.
Make a few samples with different settings where you vary density, width of overlap and compensation. Stitch them on cotton (and some other material you use) , make notes of the settings underneath each test and keep the result in your reference "bible". Best way to learn quickly what you like best.
I hardly ever digitise overlaps but digitise a general underlay and set a pull compensation of 0.3 or 0.4. That gives gap free results in 99 % of the cases.
Make a few samples with different settings where you vary density, width of overlap and compensation. Stitch them on cotton (and some other material you use) , make notes of the settings underneath each test and keep the result in your reference "bible". Best way to learn quickly what you like best.
2 comments
Thank you, when I digitized for myself it did not matter. Now it does, which is why I thought I had better find a better way! And before I go to pass 2 on this design.
Thank you for your quick response, I will go play around...
Luckily on my current designs posted in projects I did not have this problem.
Thank you for your quick response, I will go play around...
Luckily on my current designs posted in projects I did not have this problem.
Oh, and a light bulb just flash on...
This is why you said you can use the same design for filled stitch or applique. Because my filled stitch designs overlap, (as specified in my tutorials!) I could not use the same design for applique (which do not overlap!) I did not understand how you did it.
It will be nice to be able to use the same basic design for both...
Thank you again for your help.
This is why you said you can use the same design for filled stitch or applique. Because my filled stitch designs overlap, (as specified in my tutorials!) I could not use the same design for applique (which do not overlap!) I did not understand how you did it.
It will be nice to be able to use the same basic design for both...
Thank you again for your help.
66927✽
by
graceandham
04 Jun 2014
+3✽
What if you did the face and possibly the hair as applique?
1 comment
Thank you for your input.
It is a good idea, but no, I specifically want it to be a filled design. I plan to make an applique design as well, with 3D petals. I still have to figure out what the best way would be to create the 3D petals...
The hair is easy, I can simply make it a darker colour. But I still need to do the face and hands... And I want to be able to make pretty blond babies.
I have lots of baby designs (I love children's designs - the clipart is alsways so pretty!) and they will all have the same issue. So Martine's (Mops) way will be the best.
So I will start experimenting. It won't be difficult, as I already have the basic design done.
When creating stuff for myself, I simply cheated by stitching the light parts twice. That will not work for designs I sell, so I have to do it right...
The tutorial I used, taught you to overlap. Which is why I have this issue.
It is a good idea, but no, I specifically want it to be a filled design. I plan to make an applique design as well, with 3D petals. I still have to figure out what the best way would be to create the 3D petals...
The hair is easy, I can simply make it a darker colour. But I still need to do the face and hands... And I want to be able to make pretty blond babies.
I have lots of baby designs (I love children's designs - the clipart is alsways so pretty!) and they will all have the same issue. So Martine's (Mops) way will be the best.
So I will start experimenting. It won't be difficult, as I already have the basic design done.
When creating stuff for myself, I simply cheated by stitching the light parts twice. That will not work for designs I sell, so I have to do it right...
The tutorial I used, taught you to overlap. Which is why I have this issue.
318555✽
by
dragonflyer
04 Jun 2014
+3✽
I don't have Embird, but I would suspect that there is a "remove overlaps" function that would remove the layer underneath. Both of my softwares have this...
3 comments
Thank you for your input.
The tutorial I use said you must overlap all parts slightly, else you have gaps between the different parts where the fabric is visible. You don't want the fabic to be visible.
However, Martine (Mops) explained how to get rid of this gap without overlapping, but using a special setting in Embird.
If I get rid of the overlapping without doing what she said, there will be gaps where the fabric will be visible between the face and the petals, the hair and the petals and the hands and the petals.
The tutorial I use said you must overlap all parts slightly, else you have gaps between the different parts where the fabric is visible. You don't want the fabic to be visible.
However, Martine (Mops) explained how to get rid of this gap without overlapping, but using a special setting in Embird.
If I get rid of the overlapping without doing what she said, there will be gaps where the fabric will be visible between the face and the petals, the hair and the petals and the hands and the petals.
Both my softwares allow for small overlap around the area to prevent gaps caused by push and pull...and they also have adjustments you can make to further adjust for push and pull. The remove overlaps function removes the major stitching area underneath only.
Thanks for explaining.
145305✽
There are more ways to kill a cat than smother it in cream. And Embird offers many ways to accomplish one and the same thing. If one way does not work out for whatever reason - like your embroidering light on top of a dark colour - experiment and do it another way.
The overlap need not be large, a fraction is enough.
There is third way to do it.
You could make sure the parts touch perfectly by making your nodes "magnetic" so they snap together. Then you enlarge the top part slightly by using Transform, scroll down the pop-up list and enlarge with 0.2 maybe 0.4 mm, you'll recognise the concentric circles that form the icon. That too would work. But if you don't start in the middle of your design - face after the petals - make sure you set a general underlay first. That really helps to prevent gaps.
You really should experiment and find a method you are comfortable with. And write down your settings for future reference!
The overlap need not be large, a fraction is enough.
There is third way to do it.
You could make sure the parts touch perfectly by making your nodes "magnetic" so they snap together. Then you enlarge the top part slightly by using Transform, scroll down the pop-up list and enlarge with 0.2 maybe 0.4 mm, you'll recognise the concentric circles that form the icon. That too would work. But if you don't start in the middle of your design - face after the petals - make sure you set a general underlay first. That really helps to prevent gaps.
You really should experiment and find a method you are comfortable with. And write down your settings for future reference!
1 comment
Thanks again for sharing your expertise with us. I have learned so much since actively taking part in the Cute Community.
To think I was a member since 2010, and did not tap into this huge knowledge base until this year... I could have known these things long ago!
To think I was a member since 2010, and did not tap into this huge knowledge base until this year... I could have known these things long ago!
12506✽
just put a left over piece of tearaway, on top of the dark and stitch away, if you have undersewing you could tearaway the edges before you do the fill stitch...wendy
1 comment
Now that is an interesting idea. I will try this when making stuff for myself. But to sell those designs? I don't think the people buying these designs will be impressed with me if I tell them to put tearaway over the stitched parts halfway through...
140717✽
Thanks for the question and for all of the answers. I have learned a lot!
1 comment
My pleasure.
That is why I asked it here and not in a pm - I was sure more people wanted to know! But now everybody knows how ignorant I am...
That is why I asked it here and not in a pm - I was sure more people wanted to know! But now everybody knows how ignorant I am...