I have been enjoying my adventure learning the in's and out's of my machine. It is a sewing as well as an embroidery machine and I thought a couple months ago it is time to make sure I know how to use every foot. That is I have so far. (I have list for few more) I used the quilting guide in the mat pictured here and have learned using my bias foot. I made the bias for this and still having a time understanding making the continuous cut kind. This mat is for a friend she wanted a mat about 24 inches for on her table.
I cut out and got kind of started last night with help from a wonderful friend and Cutie I watched a tutorial on how to use my sensormatic foot on my machine.
I had figured out reg as well as manual. But bless her heart there by doing the sensormatic can set things. Push button and off it goes or with foot pedal. It was like I learned my bicycle again.
So I used my sensormatic button holer foot, on the skirt shown in pic 2 then in 3 is using blindhem foot, which I need to tweak a little more. Pic 4 shows my buttonholes.
I need to find a better way to pull this small of a tie like seen here it was about 4 feet long I was open in middle so had to turn right side out 2 feet from each end and was 1/2 to turn inside out. This was a bear.. If you got any suggestions I would appreciate.
This has been fun past couple days as my Pfaff and I are starting to have a good time together.
Beautiful work you have done.
SQ
In reference to turning small tubes like your 4 foot tie string. 2 ways I have done it depending on if you have a serger- which may defeat the idea of getting to know your machine better. Anyway with the serger since you wanted the opening about in the middle of your tie string, I would serge off about 3 feet to make a string cord and leaving it still attached lay it along the right side of the material along the fold line, so it is well clear of your seam line, that you will next be stitching. Proceed to stitch across the bottom short end and up the long edge for 2 feet of tubing then do the same thing for the second half of your tie string, not forgetting to again serge off 3 feet of cording and tuck in the fold away from the seam but also be sure to leave about a 1 inch or so opening when you come to the area the seams will come close to meeting. As you get close to the opening take the time to fish out each of those 2 serged cords. The amount of opening really does not have to be very large as you will just need enough space to pull the material tie strings through. Because the serged string is connected to each tie string end, as long as it has not gotten caught in any of the seams, you should easily be able to pull that string and turn your tube right side out, very easily, even for tubes much smaller than you have here.
The second way I would use if I was using my sewing machine is to take a button hole thick thread and this time take about 6 feet for each end of the tie and taking one of the lengths about at the half way point I would using my zig zag stitch, stitch over the top of the thread for about 1/4 inch but very close stitches, right at the fold point but within the seam allowance, at the end of the ties. If you pull that thread it should easily slide under the zig zag stitches. Fold the material as you prepare to sew the seams of the tie and again lay those doubled over button hole thread along the fold line. Start sewing your seams starting at the ends and sewing to the middle again being sure to fish out those button hole threads when you come close to the middle where your seams will come close to meeting and also as you start to sew, down on the tie ends, try to lay the string in such a way that you are not splitting the threads with your machine needle, which would make it hard to pull the string completely out when you were finished turning the tube right side out. If you did not mind the string remaining in there then there would be no worry if you split the string as you were sewing that end seam. Again you will not need too much space left unstitched since you will only need enough space for the material tube to pass through. Pull the string and it should easily pull through and since you zig zagged over the thread you could just continue to pull the string and pull it all right out and leave no thick string remaining. Hope that this is clear enough for you and others to understand what I am trying to explain. Using just thread, in order to help turn the tubes, you can learn to manage turning very small tubes and in those cases trimming the seam allowance down will allow you to make them even smaller. This also would work to cover rat tail cording but I have not done that one yet, though it was explained to me, to do it this same way, just using the one cord not doubled over as I use for the button hole thread method. Hope you continue to have fun learning your machines capabilities!
I like top stitching on ties and I really don't like turning long lengths so I actually fold it as if it was bias binding and top stitch the ends and long side closed. For ties you don't even have to cut on the bias unless you want the stretch it gives or you are binding around curves.
I use my simplicity bias maker to Fold and press the binding/ straps ready to use. Such a timesaver. I bought it with a 40% off coupon.
Enjoy yourself and make something pretty today hugs Carolyn
After concentrating on my embroidery machine for a couple years, I joined a Husqvarna Club for a year to 'relearn' my sewing machine.
That is a great way to learn all your feet if you are lucky enough to have a good sewing shop close by.
I learnt how to use a Gathering Foot. Wow that was fun even though I have no littlies to sew for.
Also learnt that I knew more than I thought I did.
Good luck with your machine adventures. :-)